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South Arete T 

South Arete 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,346
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Start of the south arete, left of a large pine tre...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route appears in Rossiter's book in detail and description, but in name was mistakenly called "North Arete." Start at the lowest point of the First Flatironette, at its south-most ridge and climb to the summit. Along the way there are many opportunities for moves harder than 5.2, but always a chance to avoid them. This route is probably 4th class, in reality. It ascends 400+ feet of climbing on a rock which is probably 300' tall. Along the way you come to several false summits, similar to the N. Ridge of the first flatiron, but not as clean. To descend from the Summit, hop off to the NW, go up to the NW around the summit of The Spy and take the Spy Express trail North of the spy back East and then south to the base of the First Flatironette.

Protection 

A light rack, or a good solo. The climb is reasonably broken up into shorter sections with good stances and rests, to be done as a solo. If lead, these same discontinuities will creat hassle and drag if you place more than an occasional piece.


Photos of South Arete Slideshow Add Photo
climbing found along the first pitch...slabby, plenty of holds
BETA PHOTO: climbing found along the first pitch...slabby, ple...
Matt Tucker approaching what I'm pretty sure is the summit of the First Flatironette. Photo by Brian Aitken.
Matt Tucker approaching what I'm pretty sure is th...

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