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South area

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Behind the Scenes 
Purgatory Wall 
VD (Very Direct) Wall 
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South area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,440'
Location: 34.41121, -117.85638 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,692
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
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Punchbowl Creek in late afternoon.

Description 

The South Area of the Devilís Punchbowl consists of several long sandstone slabs arranged on a hillside, facing north. This area sits in a valley to the south of and about 300í below the parking lot. A creek graces this area in the winter and spring, flowing down out of the San Gabriel Mountains, along the base of the climbing walls. The preeminent wall in this area is Very Direct (VD) wall. It features by far the most routes and sits in front of the other walls. The sandstone in the South Area tends to be more homogenous than what is found in the North Area, lending well to fine smearing and not a lot of aggregate rock. It is also in this southern part of the park where most of the moderate climbing is found. Since the walls are predominantly north-facing, the South Area is best for climbing on warm days. It can get very hot in summer.


Getting There 

From the parking lot, take the trail at the south side (to the left of the Burkhart Horse Trail sign). Follow this trail a short distance to a fork. Take the left fork over to a nice lookout of the southern valley. From here, follow the trail down on the right, into the valley. The trail will switch back to the left and continue east to the bottom of the valley, with several small turns and switchbacks. Once you encounter the creek, head right. Continue upstream, making a few crossings along the way, until you reach the base of a large sandstone slab. This is Very Direct (VD) wall. Allow about 10 minutes hiking from the parking lot.


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South area:
Slot Machine   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Rurp Rip-off   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Tree Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Velcro   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Overhanger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Taboo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Behind the Scenes
Spike the Punch   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Lower Bolt Route   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Browse More Classics in South area

Featured Route For South area
Rocket Man working the crux.

Overhanger 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : High Desert : ... : VD (Very Direct) Wall
Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the arÍte past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from arÍte to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Rou...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of South area Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers above the cave on VD wall.
Climbers above the cave on VD wall.
The climbing slabs of the South area.
The climbing slabs of the South area.
This is the trailhead for the South area.
BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead for the South area.
Cooling off in the creek.
Cooling off in the creek.
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