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South Area

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Behind the Scenes 
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South Area Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 4,440'
Location: 34.41121, -117.85638 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,715
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009


69° | 49°

75° | 53°

76° | 54°

76° | 54°
Memorial Day

77° | 55°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The South Area of the Devil’s Punchbowl consists of several long sandstone slabs arranged on a hillside, facing north. This area sits in a valley to the south of and about 300’ below the parking lot. A creek graces this area in the winter and spring, flowing down out of the San Gabriel Mountains, along the base of the climbing walls. The preeminent wall in this area is Very Direct (VD) wall. It features by far the most routes and sits in front of the other walls. The sandstone in the South Area tends to be more homogenous than what is found in the North Area, lending well to fine smearing and not a lot of aggregate rock. It is also in this southern part of the park where most of the moderate climbing is found. Since the walls are predominantly north-facing, the South Area is best for climbing on warm days. It can get very hot in summer.

Getting There 

From the parking lot, take the trail at the south side (to the left of the Burkhart Horse Trail sign). Follow this trail a short distance to a fork. Take the left fork over to a nice lookout of the southern valley. From here, follow the trail down on the right, into the valley. The trail will switch back to the left and continue east to the bottom of the valley, with several small turns and switchbacks. Once you encounter the creek, head right. Continue upstream, making a few crossings along the way, until you reach the base of a large sandstone slab. This is Very Direct (VD) wall. Allow about 10 minutes hiking from the parking lot.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Area:
Water Cracks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 50'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Rurp Rip-off   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Tree Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Slot Machine   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Velcro   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Overhanger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Taboo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Behind the Scenes
Spike the Punch   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Lower Bolt Route   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Arched Demon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   VD (Very Direct) Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Area

Featured Route For South Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Constine leading Rupert The Bear 5.11bc

Rupert The Bear 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13  CA : High Desert : ... : VD (Very Direct) Wall
The crux is about 35 feet up passing an overhang on the left. After the crux it's 25 ft up and to the right of sustained 5.11 climbing. This route has two new bolts I hope don't get removed making it much safer. The last move to a solid two bolted anchor is also a crux move....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of South Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers above the cave on VD wall.
Climbers above the cave on VD wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: The climbing slabs of the South area.
The climbing slabs of the South area.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the trailhead for the South area.
BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead for the South area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cooling off in the creek.
Cooling off in the creek.

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