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South American Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 923
Submitted By: boulderkeith on May 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: South American Crack in the dihedral on the left, ...

Description 

This climb is a short layback dihedral on the South American Boulders. At only 30' in length, it is short but is strenuous for the grade.


Photos of South American Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Ale TR'ing South American Crack.
Ale TR'ing South American Crack.
Fliers surveys the dihedral.
Fliers surveys the dihedral.
Butt shot
Butt shot

Comments on South American Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zach Wahrer
From: The Road
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Its easy to set up a TR (a #4, #3, and #2 C4 work nicely) on this climb by scrambling up the boulders around the right hand side from the crack. Marvel at the 13b arete climb as you pass by it. That thing is beast!
By DennisL
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 19, 2014

Beta: jamming your right foot straight makes the whole climb a lot less strenuous than a full layback.

A #4 is crucial and a #5 is twice as nice!
By marshall moose
From: Golden, Colorado
Dec 24, 2014

I definitely would suggest a #5 unless you want to layback the whole thing and get it over with quickly. I severely dislike laybacks so I offwidth climbed it near the top - you can reach in and get fingers in the flake so it's pretty reasonable. Definitely worth stopping by on the way back from Buzzard's Roost.
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