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 ADVANCED
Shagg Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agro Shagg S 
Block Buster S 
Cell Block D S 
Continental Divide T 
Cut Split and Delivered S 
Death to the Queen S 
Deja Voodoo S 
Diesel S 
Diesel Bob S 
Fat Bastard S 
Fat Pig S 
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers  S 
Ginseng Route S 
Great Escape, The S 
Grimas De Oro 
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 
Kick to the Teeth S 
Late for Dinner S 
Long and Short of It, The S 
Looney Tunes S 
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 
Meltdown S 
Nice Tooth S 
Patches the Clown S 
Pushes Little Daisies S 
Raging Bull, The 
Recombinant DNA S 
Rhino Flake T 
Ritual , The S 
Rough Rhino S 
Screw It S 
Shagg It  S 
Shagg Zag S 
Shaggin Wagon S 
Short Bob S 
Short Shagg S 
Sour Diesel S 
Standard Route T 
Summer Smoke S 
Tightrope S 
Two Shaved Heads S 
Unitard S 
Unknown Name S 
Velvet Elvis S 
What About Bob? S 
What About Bobcat S 
When the fat lady sings S 
Zagg Shagg S 
Unsorted Routes:

Sour Diesel 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Bill Morse
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Bill Morse on Jul 19, 2011

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Description 

Climb Diesel, but rather than finishing at the 10 anchor climb right to the rest ledge of What About Bob and finish up the left leaning dihedral of of the original What About Bob. Seeing as how Diesel climbs WAY better than it looks, it has always been marred only by its short length. The original What About Bob finish, originally rated 12d????, lay unrepeated for years after only two assents by Jim Ewing and Luke Parady. The cryptically hard sequence left many a hard man shaking their head as they lowered off completely stymied. Finally unlocked over ten years later by Chris "The Deulenator" Deulen, the Bob finish appropriately caps Diesel with a feel through the upper dihedral reminiscent of perhaps the sierras more than Shagg and makes it totally full-value and way more rad. Even with the rest ledge it adds considerable difficulty to Diesel and greatly solidifies the 13d grade.


Protection 

12 Bolts to fixed anchors



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By Bill Morse
Jul 19, 2011

May want to clip the 3rd bolt on the 9 as the first so that the belayer can stand back far enough to see the climber up on the upper section.

By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Jul 20, 2011

Inspiring send, Bill!

By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Jul 20, 2011

Damnnnnn,Bill. Nice. Give me a shout brother, Im takin this year off.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Jan 8, 2012

Welcome to MP my friend! And kicking it off in style!

By Bill Morse
Aug 12, 2012

Vin Diesel does the Bob start into Diesel rather than the 9. Another notch harder, but still very much 13d in my opinion.