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Approach as for the Potato Chip. Once at the knifeblade SW edge of the Potato Chip, look ~ 60 feet left to an obvious right-facing crack system that curves upward and though a small dihedral before kicking back to a lower angle and running past a 2' tall tree and up a dirty crack. Climb up great rock through some really beautiful moves. I actually got 2 no-hands rests from knee locks in the acute overhanging dihedral. After about 50' of climbing the off-fingers crack passed an overhanging section and transitioned to a low-angle, and somewhat loose/dirty system that keeps this climb from being 2**. Too bad.
This pitch protects as weel as you could ask for. Go do it when you are up there.
To descend, walk north past 2 false summit blocks (1 visible, then 1 hidden block). From the third black, cut back hard left (S/SW) to a pine tree and walk/scramble down the ridge to the trail near the base again. This takes ~ 2 minutes.
One full set of cams, from .5" to 3" Lowe Tricams and stoppers are also useful, but not needed.
BETA PHOTO: Sour Cream in the center.
Above the little tree on the easy upper section of...
|By Jay Eggleston|
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The first half of this route is pretty fun, but the upper half is not so great.