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Soup to Nuts 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 11/00
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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jeff, sticking the big throw... just a few more to...

Description 

Not a bad obscure route (that hasn't seen too many repeats) but not a classic either. The rock is a little brittle but the holds you need seem solid (the crux hold is reinforced with glue I think). The best thing about the route is the exposure of the upper wall as the pitch starts 100+ feet off the ground.

Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours Direct to the two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and right to a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a ledge beneath the bulge to a good clipping hold and a really big deadpoint to a pretty good hold (crimp). Body tension, footwork, and hard crimping will get you through the moves between crimps straight up about 20 feet to a rest and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours. The technical crimping was my favorite part but if you like hard deadpointing you will love the crux.

Edit - Note, the hold you used to dyno for has broken off, so it is probably quite a bit harder than 12c now.

Location 

Up the vegetated corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall.. You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor. The crux pitch use the first bolt or 2 of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right then heads up over the steep bulge.

Protection 

Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.


Photos of Soup to Nuts Slideshow Add Photo
jeff, action hero
jeff, action hero
jeff... get ready to TOSS!
jeff... get ready to TOSS!
peeking around the corner...
peeking around the corner...
jeff just after the big throw move
jeff just after the big throw move
moving in to the tough stuff
moving in to the tough stuff
jeff gets tied in for a redpoint attempt...
jeff gets tied in for a redpoint attempt...

Comments on Soup to Nuts Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2014
By Timmijal
Jun 23, 2013

Around a week ago a friend of mine broke off the key crux hold. This was the hold that had some glue behind it and I think that the route will be much harder now.
This is the hold which broke off
This is the hold which broke off
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 24, 2013

Don't feel bad. I was always a little bummed about the ugliness of that glued hold. I should probably figure out how to chop those bolts and patch them. I doubt the route would go without the hold and if it did it would be a nasty hard one move wonder that nobody will ever do. One thing I have learned is that it seems no matter how carefully you do it, almost every glued hold eventually ends up popping off anyway, so I have become much more circumspect about gluing stuff.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 24, 2013

Nooo!!! :'( And on to the list of routes I'll have to try harder on :)

The hold I'm going to here?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 24, 2013

Yup. Cover photo, right hand mountainproject.com/v/10781539...

OK, I'll leave them. Now you can dyno 6+ feet for the left hand crimp.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 24, 2013

I actually enjoyed this as an alternative to Rock Du Jours Direct. Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try.
By Eric Leclerc
Jul 14, 2014

It's sad to see a route being abandoned because of one broken hold.
This route will never be sent again...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 14, 2014

Has anybody given it a serious attempt since the hold broke? We need one of the North Conway boys to come and bolt on a big purple hold like they did at Sundown, :))

"Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try." - or As the World Burns
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 15, 2014

i looked at it pretty well and didnt see a solution (barring the purple hold idea haha) but i will look again and hope my perspective changes and i can figure it out...
By Eric Leclerc
Jul 15, 2014

Adam Ondra could probably stick a really bad under crimp with his thumb just above the broken hold.
This could be a 5.15 move!!!
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 16, 2014

I actually gave it a few goes after the hold broke. The broken hold left a smooth break. Left of this are some sharp edges that can be used. I (and most people I imagine) used a left heel hook originally; when I pull up to the crimp out left (just as long of a move as before) it required me to REALLY engage my left calf. It didn't feel good so I stopped. I pulled up and from that crimp I was able to ascend the rest of the route. I'm sure this will go but it'll be one extremely hard, inconsistent move. Then again, no one really cares about Mesresha (open project).
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 17, 2014

I will have to try it again... i really like climbing rocks