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Soup to Nuts 
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Soup to Nuts 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 11/00
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008
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jeff, sticking the big throw... just a few more to...

Description 

Not a bad obscure route (that hasn't seen too many repeats) but not a classic either. The rock is a little brittle but the holds you need seem solid (the crux hold is reinforced with glue I think). The best thing about the route is the exposure of the upper wall as the pitch starts 100+ feet off the ground.

Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours Direct to the two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and right to a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a ledge beneath the bulge to a good clipping hold and a really big deadpoint to a pretty good hold (crimp). Body tension, footwork, and hard crimping will get you through the moves between crimps straight up about 20 feet to a rest and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours. The technical crimping was my favorite part but if you like hard deadpointing you will love the crux.


Location 

Up the vegetated corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall.. You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor. The crux pitch use the first bolt or 2 of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right then heads up over the steep bulge.


Protection 

Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.



Photos of Soup to Nuts Slideshow Add Photo
jeff, action hero
jeff, action hero
jeff... get ready to TOSS!
jeff... get ready to TOSS!
peeking around the corner...
peeking around the corner...
jeff just after the big throw move
jeff just after the big throw move
moving in to the tough stuff
moving in to the tough stuff
jeff gets tied in for a redpoint attempt...
jeff gets tied in for a redpoint attempt...
Comments on Soup to Nuts Add Comment
Show which comments
By Timmijal
Jun 23, 2013

Around a week ago a friend of mine broke off the key crux hold. This was the hold that had some glue behind it and I think that the route will be much harder now.

This is the hold which broke off
This is the hold which broke off

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 24, 2013

Don't feel bad. I was always a little bummed about the ugliness of that glued hold. I should probably figure out how to chop those bolts and patch them. I doubt the route would go without the hold and if it did it would be a nasty hard one move wonder that nobody will ever do. One thing I have learned is that it seems no matter how carefully you do it, almost every glued hold eventually ends up popping off anyway, so I have become much more circumspect about gluing stuff.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 24, 2013

Nooo!!! :'( And on to the list of routes I'll have to try harder on :)

The hold I'm going to here?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 24, 2013

Yup. Cover photo, right hand www.mountainproject.com/v/107815396

OK, I'll leave them. Now you can dyno 6+ feet for the left hand crimp.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 24, 2013

I actually enjoyed this as an alternative to Rock Du Jours Direct. Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try.