Soup to Nuts  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Mark Sprague 11/00 Submitted By:  lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

jeff, sticking the big throw... just a few more to...

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Description 

Not a bad obscure route (that hasn't seen too many repeats) but not a classic either. The rock is a little brittle but the holds you need seem solid (the crux hold is reinforced with glue I think). The best thing about the route is the exposure of the upper wall as the pitch starts 100+ feet off the ground.

Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours Direct to the two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and right to a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a ledge beneath the bulge to a good clipping hold and a really big deadpoint to a pretty good hold (crimp). Body tension, footwork, and hard crimping will get you through the moves between crimps straight up about 20 feet to a rest and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours. The technical crimping was my favorite part but if you like hard deadpointing you will love the crux.

Location 

Up the vegetated corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall.. You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor. The crux pitch use the first bolt or 2 of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right then heads up over the steep bulge.

Protection 

Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.

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jeff, action hero	peeking around the corner...	moving in to the tough stuff
jeff just after the big throw move	jeff... get ready to TOSS!	jeff gets tied in for a redpoint attempt...