This route starts in the approach gully, right of Sea of Dreams and left of Dry Ice (an obvious, left-facing, corner system.) An absolutely amazing arete route on perfect granite. If you don't like this one, you might as well cut short your visit to Dream Canyon and give up. The route is sustained and excellent throughout.
It is fully bolted, with a bolted rap station. Bring gear for an anchor if you belay in the gully. Be careful when lowering with a 50m rope; you'll barely make it down (lower to the left and uphill if in doubt).
|By Ken Heiser|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This is one of my favorite routes in Dream Canyon. I led this yesterday by starting in the gully at the base of "Wrinkles in Time" going up the gully and then up the bolts to the anchor at the top of the pitch. This make for about a 170' lead. The bolted part of this pitch is very sequential and sustained and has some of the prettiest granite I have ever seen on a beautiful arete. I could not lower off even to the ledge gully on the left with a 60m rope so I belayed my partner up the route and we did one short rappel to anchor at the top of the climb "Stained Glass" and then another to the ground. Also it would be possible to rappel to the ledge system on the left side for an ascent of "Sea of Dreams" et al. I always bring a yellow alien and place it at the top of the upper crux (after the thin right-angling crack) flake as it is a ways between bolts and I have often arrived there with a good pump. Super route, do it!!
|By doug rouse|
From: Denver, CO.
Mar 9, 2009
Greetings...I understand the need for a "yellow Alien" or green blue red etc.... I do not happen to have any Aliens. A suggestion would be to say try a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of gear.... Yes I'm a dirtbag and do not make a lot of dough!