Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake 
Beak, The 
Black Streak, The 
Bob's Nob 
Castlewood Capers 
Cheesedick Soiree 
Cobble Wobble 
Horizontal Bop 
Nob Job 
Noodlers' Nightmare 
Nose Job 
Phalloid Void 
Pit Viper 
Pocket, The 
Prarie Dog 
Ruse, The 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation 
Slot, The 
Song of the Wood 
Sub, The 
Sun Cave Direct 
Sun Cave Right 
Textured Landscape 
Unsorted Routes:

Song of the Wood 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tod Andereson, Tom Hanson, 1998
Page Views: 928
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 25, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Pat Burwick singing the Song of the Wood.
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Sixty feet left of The Sub and just before the cobbled block in the path is a severely overhanging cave with a route starting right off the trail.

Launch up with a series of no-foot campus moves to shag the first draw, or stick clip the second bolt. Between bolts one and two is the crux, which is still causing me some serious dog points (as Andre The Giant said, "I don't understand why you are causing me so much trouble". It must be the feet). From a large, square cut, grey cobble, set the feet for a big reach to an undercling pinch. This is followed by a series of reaches on good cobbles and corners to get the second clip. Pull over the lip, grab a chill, and get ready to rock with great moves, more cobbles, and one more roof.

This a very commendable problem on acceptable stone with great gear. The rock still sheds a bit of surface debris, but this is not a major distraction. Overall, this is an excellent line with a steep and bouldery opening. Kudos, lads!


Eight draws and a rope.

Comments on Song of the Wood Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -