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Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 
Beak, The S 
Black Streak, The S 
Bob's Nob S 
Castlewood Capers S 
Cheesedick Soiree S 
Cobble Wobble S 
Horizontal Bop S 
Icerigger S 
Nob Job S 
Noodlers' Nightmare S 
Nose Job S 
Phalloid Void S 
Pit Viper S 
Pocket, The S 
Prarie Dog S 
Ruse, The S 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 
Sidewinder S 
Slot, The S 
Song of the Wood S 
Sub, The S 
Sun Cave Direct S 
Sun Cave Right S 
Svengali S 
Textured Landscape S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
Unsorted Routes:
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Song of the Wood 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tod Andereson, Tom Hanson, 1998
Page Views: 1,241
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 25, 2001

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Pat Burwick singing the Song of the Wood.

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Sixty feet left of The Sub and just before the cobbled block in the path is a severely overhanging cave with a route starting right off the trail.

Launch up with a series of no-foot campus moves to shag the first draw, or stick clip the second bolt. Between bolts one and two is the crux, which is still causing me some serious dog points (as Andre The Giant said, "I don't understand why you are causing me so much trouble". It must be the feet). From a large, square cut, grey cobble, set the feet for a big reach to an undercling pinch. This is followed by a series of reaches on good cobbles and corners to get the second clip. Pull over the lip, grab a chill, and get ready to rock with great moves, more cobbles, and one more roof.

This a very commendable problem on acceptable stone with great gear. The rock still sheds a bit of surface debris, but this is not a major distraction. Overall, this is an excellent line with a steep and bouldery opening. Kudos, lads!


Eight draws and a rope.

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