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Redgarden - Tower One
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Song of the Dodo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jack and Pam Roberts, 1998.
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,273
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Past the mental crux...physical crux coming up! N...
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  • Description 

    This is the bolted route that can be toproped from the rappel off the Upper Ramp to the left of Vertigo. I only heard through word of mouth that it was put up by Jack Roberts, I am not sure if this is true. The Vertigo raps are probably the most popular way off the Upper Ramp, and I am willing to bet many have toproped this route from the last rappel anchor. It starts with a right-facing dihedral with a hard .11b move halfway up. The upper portion of the route climbs a gently overhanging bolted headwall that goes at sequential .12a climbing. This is a fun route to toprope, it would be a very scary route to lead.


    Protection 

    The upper portion of this route has bolts, the lower 5.11 dihedral has horrible pro. I was told it was toproped extensively before it was led.



    Photos of Song of the Dodo Slideshow Add Photo
    Irina Overeem at the first hard move.
    Irina Overeem at the first hard move.
    Irina Overeem at the overhanging headwall.  The next moves are very difficult.
    Irina Overeem at the overhanging headwall. The ne...
    Comments on Song of the Dodo Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 10, 2013
    By Kristo torgersen
    Aug 1, 2001

    You hit the head on the nail, Pat: scary lead, great toprope, sequential 12a moves. Since it falls right under the rap route it makes a great toprope, as long as there aren't people rapping down above you.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 10, 2002

    Maybe it's just me, but the moves in the dihedral down low seemed more like 10-, and the headwall more like mid-12. This seems odd since I'm a boulderer, so theoretically the bottom should have felt harder than the top. Either way, that move into the sidepull with your left is pretty cool, and the slopey topout is painfully greasy...mmmm....

    By Jimmy Farrell
    From: Lexington, KY
    Sep 16, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

    WOW! What an amazing route. Definitely could be a little scary through the 11b section, but if you can commit to the moves, it flows so nice! The gear is scarce, but it gave me enough courage to make the moves. (It also helped that I did it a couple of times on TR first.) After passing the mental crux, the movement through the 12a section is one of the coolest sequences I've ever done. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...as a TR or as a very fulfilling lead (if you are comfortable with a committing runout).

    By Scott Bennett
    Sep 18, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Great route, good fun to toprope, and I don't think it's as scary a lead as the other comments would indicate. The lower section in the dihedral is not even close to 11b, probably more like mid-10, and when you're at the crux, there a bomber small nut and blue Alien just a few feet below you. You can also get more gear during the lower crux, though it's a little hard to place. It is more runout finishing up the dihedral section, but the climbing is probably 8 or 9.
    I think that if you have any chance at getting the top, true crux in the bolted section, then the bottom half shouldn't be a big deal.
    -Scott

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 20, 2008

    I can agree with that. I've never had any problem on the bottom, but have never been able to free the crux up high, though I can usually work out 12a.

    By Chris Archer
    Nov 2, 2009

    GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing.

    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Jan 13, 2010

    Was the bolt pulled because it lies right below a rap station? Great route, I vote the bolt goes back in. Granted the lower part is a bit serious, and it felt all of 5.11. I'm guessing theres an efficient way to do the bottom, and a not so efficient way. I'd be happy to help put the bolt in. Weather has been puuurrrrfffeeeccccttt.

    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 10, 2010

    Has the last bolt been replaced yet?

    By Josh Janes
    Mar 10, 2010

    As of last week, the bolt was still missing. The fall from the crux would be pretty bad without that bolt. The hole and sleeve (I think) were still there....

    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 1, 2011

    The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement.

    By Brent Butler
    From: Del Norte, CO
    Jun 10, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

    The lower crux could maybe be 11b if one stayed true to the dihedral. I chose to step right, and it appears as though this is the commonly followed path. This way it feels about 10+.