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Probably the best route on the wall. While the book refers to this as a sustained crack, most of the climbing is face climbing. Still, crux jams may make this a lot easier if you know how.
This is the 3rd bolt line on the wall from the left side.
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is well protected by the second to last bolt.
Reachy move on Song of Stone
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Has anyone ever led this on gear? Although I'm grateful for this route being bolted, I wish I had brought my rack for this route... but on the other hand hauling a trad rack overseas for just this route would have been futile.
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 23, 2012
Definitely easier for me since I like crack. Still, the crack up high on the route is harder to jam cause it gets wider and has thin lips; pull on the edge and you're fine.