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The Junkyard
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Song Of Stone 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Francis Hayden and Thomas Perkins, 10/2002
Season: Gets mostly shade
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Side pull clip on Song of Stone
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the best route on the wall. While the book refers to this as a sustained crack, most of the climbing is face climbing. Still, crux jams may make this a lot easier if you know how.


Location 

This is the 3rd bolt line on the wall from the left side.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is well protected by the second to last bolt.



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Reachy move on Song of Stone
Reachy move on Song of Stone
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Has anyone ever led this on gear? Although I'm grateful for this route being bolted, I wish I had brought my rack for this route... but on the other hand hauling a trad rack overseas for just this route would have been futile.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 23, 2012

Definitely easier for me since I like crack. Still, the crack up high on the route is harder to jam cause it gets wider and has thin lips; pull on the edge and you're fine.