Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
FA: | B Gillett, P Bodnar, 2008 |
Page Views: | 1,806 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 14, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This great climb ascends the striking arete that earned it its place on the cover of Gillett's SSV Guidebook.
Start up a few slab moves as for Pondemonium and clip its first bolt with a 2' sling, then head left on a rounded traverse edge (and or foot) passing a tiny pine to reach a bolted line on the arete (Fire on the Mountain) for several bolts to a bolted anchor. Clip the left bolt of that anchor with another 2' sling and head up and left into what may be a second pitch... there will be an obvious horizontal to place cams in, though that is after the crux climbing and the next bolt is just overhead and the previous not far down... place optional cams and continue up ther arete to one more bolt. Just when it seems that the climb might be runout, look left of the arete for one more bolt out there (long sling?) and then upward on more moderate terrain to another bolt on the arete (long sling here if you didn't on the last bolt) and to the top, passing more gear opportunity. The climb is a shave over 35m as climbed, but once the rope is straight, on rap, a 70m should get you down just fine, with a meter or two spare.
Start up a few slab moves as for Pondemonium and clip its first bolt with a 2' sling, then head left on a rounded traverse edge (and or foot) passing a tiny pine to reach a bolted line on the arete (Fire on the Mountain) for several bolts to a bolted anchor. Clip the left bolt of that anchor with another 2' sling and head up and left into what may be a second pitch... there will be an obvious horizontal to place cams in, though that is after the crux climbing and the next bolt is just overhead and the previous not far down... place optional cams and continue up ther arete to one more bolt. Just when it seems that the climb might be runout, look left of the arete for one more bolt out there (long sling?) and then upward on more moderate terrain to another bolt on the arete (long sling here if you didn't on the last bolt) and to the top, passing more gear opportunity. The climb is a shave over 35m as climbed, but once the rope is straight, on rap, a 70m should get you down just fine, with a meter or two spare.
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