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 ADVANCED
Below the New Wave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bullwinkle Craters S 
Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic S 
Couch Potato S 
Debbie Does CPR S 
Sixth Sense S 
Son of Sammy T,S 

Son of Sammy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1986
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: Jake D. on Feb 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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BETA PHOTO: Under the crux.

Description 

Start up bouldery route to the left of Couch Potato. Gain the nice finger crack and angle to the left to the LO.

Location 

Third route from the left on Below New Wave.

Protection 

4-5 Bolts to LO. This trad line has now been bolted (though you could still do it on gear).


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 20, 2007

It is a shame that this crack got bolted....
It was pretty well protected as it was....

How many bolts are on it?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 20, 2007

I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. Though it has been led a bunch of times on gear, it would be rare to see anyone on this before it was bolted. One good thing about its bolting is that it dissipates some of the traffic from nearby Couch Potato. Sure if this were in a more traditional area, its bolts would be blasphemous, but I think the line blurs a bit at Rumney, for better or for worse.
By buckeeb
Feb 20, 2007

I might be worried about the bolts if this climb was in the same league as Black Jack Crack. It is what it is and since I wouldn't drag my trad gear to Rumney for this climb, I wouldn't have done it otherwise. Fun and worth doing. Good moves.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 22, 2007

Good point. This thing is far from classic. Also of note is Black Dog crack on New Wave. This route was retrobolted and now gets climbed a lot. I think schist is pretty dodgy for trad climbs anyway, unless, of course we're talking about the few splitters in the area (5.8 Crack, Black Jack, and Journey). These splitters of course take good gear, but I would be really skeptical of any other trad route at Rumney.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

An ugly chossy trad route before it was bolted and cleaned. Short, but has some fun moves. If only it could be stacked on top of Couch Potato. A stick clip or good spot is recommended.
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Nov 15, 2008

This route protected quite well. It amazes me the lame justifications we use to retro bolt someone elses route. I doubt this was bolted with Brad's consent.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There was a hold on the face to the right when entering the crux, this hold had an X mark on it. My friend Dave told me he ripped it off the other day(it cut his forehead). Its no harder but just figured I should share.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 27, 2012

This is the 3rd from the left. Left of couch potato