Son of Gums  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Dave Baker and Fig Fiola Submitted By:  Matt Switanek on Jan 23, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>> Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows: All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27. All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows: Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th. Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Approach Pitches: Option 1 (5.10+ hard): Climb the first pitch of Cap'm Pissgums to alcove. Second pitch heads back into the squeeze chimney. On this pitch, first surmount two chockstones, then follow the darkness that takes you into a widening chimney. Near the blocks further in, chimney up again then further into the belly of End Pinnacle. This eventually opens up near the last rap of the typical descent for End Pinnacle. Option 2 (5.11): Climb the first pitch of Uncarved Block. Lastly, continue another 100 feet or so (5.5ish) up the ramp to the start of Son of Gums which will appear as the wide crack on your right.

Pitch 1) Stemming leads to one bolt that protects the difficult opening moves. Continue up large crack with a brief sampling of the offwidth to come. Exit up and left where it is obvious to do so. Belay from rap anchors (5.10-).

Pitch 2) Sustained offwidth that is great for those who wish to practice or pursue these tough love types of climbs. This pitch has more features than the second pitch of Abracadaver, but probably, in the end, is about the same difficulty. Belay on small cams and small tree (5.10).

Pitch 3) Tricky start past a bolt leads to a hand size crack that takes you to the top (5.8).

Kerry's description for the route can be found here:

www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page228.html

Descent: The route ends at the first of the raps for the typical descent off of End Pinnacle.

Protection 

2 or 3 BD #5s, 2 BD #1-4, 1 set of smaller sizes (< #1) for the anchor after the second pitch.