Liebacks on Son of a Great Chimney Direct. August ...
Do the first half of of the regular route and finish up the shallow dihedral left and center on the buttress, climb the center face instead of the corner. Climbing is sustained with a mantle/dino at the finish.
By Tradoholic Sep 5, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Finally got on this today, it is VERY GOOD! That crux after the rest on the regular route always feels hard for me. I assume I'm allowed to use the jugs on top of the see-behind block, then move left to the face? That seemed to feel like where the line logically divided.
By Tradoholic Sep 7, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Went back and led this today, one of the better protected 12's in the park. The last gear was placed blindly but I could down climb to the rest and then go up fresh to have a look at it. A whip from the top would be long but decently clean. A brass offset fit perfectly for the crux piece.
BTW, the crux of the regular route is always tricky for me, 11b/c for that. Not 11a like in the new guide.
For me, the route goes up from the crux of the 11a, pulling the bulge. There's one jug ledge at the top of the bulge, then a long reach to a thin crimp allows you to reset your feet for another long reach to the upper horizontal, which has 2 decent crimps in it. From these, you can place a #1 C4 and a nut in the blocks on the arete (without using the holds on the arete), then move up into that layback. A bit higher, in the second layback of the upper crux, you can place a bomber offset nut (one of the largest ones), but you'll probably need to figure this piece out before the lead, as it can be a bit pumpy here.
I think avoiding the right arete completely makes this route pumpy enough to deserve the 12a (as former debate suggests that the broken rock makes the upper crux 11d).
By Tradoholic Sep 10, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Ah, thanks Tom, I kinda thought that. I don't place gear in places I can't use for my hands so I considered that a unreasonable run-out if I went straight up from the bulge with no gear. 5.11d if one goes out right to the rest then.
By Tradoholic Sep 13, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
There's a nice .75 C4 in the horizontal just left of the see behind block, kinda funky but its solid. Unfortunately this means I need to lead the direct proper without use of the rest.