Son of Easy O 

Incredible climbing. The first pitch can feel pretty spicy down low. The second pitch is a great jug haul through roofs, much easier roofs than Modern Times. Continuing all the way to the top is my preference, because I'm not crazy about that old two-pin belay station. I don't think you can run it top to bottom in one pitch though. You'd have to stop at the big ledge if you were to go all the way to the top. Rap off Frog's Head bolts to the right.

For those of you looking to maximize your climbing and stamina you can link both pitches together. When I first led this way back when, I linked them together with a 60m rope and walked down.

This is the best pitch of 5.8 I have ever climbed. I combined both pitches and did the route at the end of the day just when the sun began its descent past the horizon. The upper roof is interesting, but never so hard that you can't pause and look around to admire your surroundings. And what amazing surroundings they are.

Did this in one pitch with little difficulty. Be sure to bring lots of slings though. I wasn't much impressed with P1, but P2 was totally sweet. Really fun moves on huge jugs, with excellent gear and rock. When I topped out I was surprised to find handfulls of loose gravel precariously poised to fall on climbers below. This may have been due to heavy rainfall the night before.

P2 felt easy for the grade by Gunks standards.

I felt that the roof section was easier than Strickley's, and was probably more like 5.7. A fun route overall, and definitely worth doing. P1 is definitely harder than P2. I'm not sure how P2 gets a 5.8 rating when Birdland is also 5.8 and much, much harder.

Wow, I thought that P1(based on the traditional breakdown of pitches, I actually did the whole route as one pitch) was a cake walk. For me, P2 was the one that made me a little nervous. There's no rest leading up to the crux, and you have to place gear (great gear) while hanging off of one hand with your feet in no position to save you if you pump out or lose your grip.

Strictly allows you to throw a foot out to the right tip of the corner, so you can actually be hands free and resting, albeit awkwardly, while placing gear.

You can do it as one pitch to the trees with a 60 meter. However you do not end up with enough back rope to get to the cliff edge to see your second come around the overhang. Makes communication a little difficult as well. 70 meter give enough back rope to belay from the cliff edge.

Traditionally, this was done in two pitches, by climbing leftward to the belay ledge for P1, then making a scary move straight up off the ledge to a traverse shelf and hand-traversing 10' right to the bottom of the corner (very scary if you try using this shelf as a foot traverse!).
Most folks combine these pitches into one nowadays, by forgoing the leftward move to the ledge, instead moving slightly right and up the steep, sparsely-protected face then up and left to reach the beginning of the corner.
I generally back up that anchor near the top of the cliff (the one with beat-up fixed cams and pin) to bring up followers, lower everyone else, then pull my gear and pray as I rappel. I've always tested the fixed gear and it *seems* rock-solid, but boy does it look hammered...
And yes, 70m rope required for that rap.

Simply stellar route. Kinda surprised by Mono's comment about pitch one because I actually thought that the first pitch in particular was amazing, though I would agree that the second pitch roof seemed a bit soft at 5.8 for Gunks standards. As Mr. Knower says, maybe one of the better pitches of 5.8 around.

Climbed this yesterday for the first time in a LOOOONG while! Simply outstanding!

Did this yesterday at 1 pitch.. it's funny how it has something for everyone's strength.. the slab climbers love the bottom and the roof climbers love the top. I'm a roof climber so i thought the top was easy for me.

The huge roof had me pretty intimidated from the ground, but the real business is down low at the small crack. I didn't think much of the moves but they weren't very strenuous and very well protected. You get a fantastic rest before you embark on the steep journey to the beginning of the roof, but once you get up to it it has jugs in every dimension, and once you get into pulling the roof you have great feet out right to rock onto and it feels superb. Long runners under the roof are a must tho! A fantastic climb, a surprising joy ride.

I'm just a climber and really like the whole thing.

could there be a better 8? I think not. THis is a fabulous climb from bottom to top. The bottom is harder for me, I love juggy roof climbs.

Can someone point me in the direction of a better 5.8. God I love this climb just amazing

Pitch 1 is the money, P2 is just a jug haul. Like night/day. In a way it makes it a nice climb because you get the best of both rock climbing worlds (delicate face and crack climbing vs. mindless pullups). Sometimes jug hauls can be stellar (Madame G's comes to mind). Sometimes they're just exercise. This falls directly between. Not enough can be said about the moves on the first pitch. Never the same thing twice and relatively sustained.

The sketchy old pin anchor at the top has been replaced with a new one consisting of 3 brand new pins (not even any scratches yet) with chains.

P1 was the crux for me. Sustained and so much fun. The pro was great, so it was never scary. You can really sew up this pitch. I almost unloaded a full set of nuts. P2 roof looks scary, but was very juggy and felt easier than 5.8.