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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Son of Bitchy Virgin 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Reppy (1967)
Page Views: 1,741
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Up in the pg 13 section above the crux of the 2nd ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


This is a wonderful climb, with some great face climbing on P2. The P1 mini-roof is harder than it looks. The P2 crux protects with small cams or tricams, but there is some easier runout climbing after the crux. It's a heady lead if 5.6 is your limit.

P1 - Climb the flake and crack to the small roof, surmount it on the left, then traverse back right on the face. Continue up and right toward the left edge of the gully to a stance with 2 blocks and a belay. There is sometimes some fixed gear here.

P2 - Continue up the face until it steepens, finding the best holds, up to the GT ledge. Move right to the belay rap tree and rap with two 60m ropes.

P3 - You could continue to the top on grassy rock if you must, but hardly anyone does.


At a short, right facing flake capped by a small roof just left of the broken gully that separates this climb from the Dis-Mantel block.


Standard Gunks rack + small cams/tricams

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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Jul 18, 2009

If you want to climb with one rope, you can use a 60 meter rope and rappel to the top of the large ledge that is right of the start of this route (left as you are facing out at the top). Another rap leads down the gully to the base, or you can walk over to the belay tree of Raunchy.
By Dana Marie
From: Cold Spring
Jul 21, 2009

I'd be careful of that fixed gear at the top of P1. At top out of Son of Bitchy Virgin it's easy enough to traverse right (if facing the cliff) and rappel from the other tree. This takes you straight down to the gully and tree with slings that the (other) Dana is talking about.
By Eric Lutz
Nov 8, 2015

LOVE this route!!! Did this again on 10-31-2015. Be aware: about 30ft about the p1 belay there are two flakes that aren't obvious, but are crunchy kinda loose when you yard on them. Increases the lead pucker a bit!

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