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Son of a Thousand Fathers 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pete deLannoy
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Page Views: 943
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Jun 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Classic climb

Description 

For those about to DYNO, we salute you! It is recommended that you stickclip the first two bolts of this climb if you have never done it before. Even better, have a local who knows the dyno move for the opening sequence show you how it's done. Be prepared for a fall on your way to the third bolt while doing a stand-up sequence that is a bit difficult due to a secret, hidden hold. Crimp and smear your way past the fourth and fifth bolts, and after that, its a jughaul to the anchors. This climb is the true test of one's inner strenth, a gateway to the future ranking of strongman or strongwoman.


Location 

Son of a Thousand Fathers is in the Spearfish Canyon Limestone guidebook. It is located to the right of Tongueless Wonder. Belay from the trail and get ready for a catch right off the deck.


Protection 

7 quickdraws and closed shut anchors. Be careful not to backclip or get twisted in your rope when doing the powerful moves off the deck.



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By Schwab
From: South Dakota
Jul 1, 2009

You are correct, sir! This route is absolutely a "gateway" to future hard men and women and a fine route. Case-in-point, I belayed a long curly-haired future hardwomen climber named Lee on this. It was Lee's first attempt to redpoint the route. Three times Lee fell attempting to make the move to stand-up and clip the third bolt. Each time Lee's hair would go flying as she came towards the ground, actually toe-tapping the dirt each time. Now Lee is a hard climber who frequents the Canyon with a Fabio look-alike.