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Son of a Mother 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: June 18, 1989, Dennis Luther, Tom Rosencrans
Page Views: 1,947
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007
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The thin crux at about mid-height on the route.
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Son of a Mother is a new, safe variation on a couple older, more obscure lines at Poke-O. This route is one hell of a find!

    On the far left end of the cliff, about 300 feet to the left of the large apron slab, are several great climbs. Locate the large right-facing off-width of Phase 3. SOAM, climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of it.

    Gain the open book, by chimneying up some not-so-demanding rock, then step left around a small roof. Some technical foot work and good, but hidden, horizontal reliefs will get you to the first bolt.

    Clip it, then figure out the sequence (it involves a small but positive high left hand and foot combination).

    Gain the "bucket" out to your right, and clip another bolt. Milk the small rest, then continue up and into the amazing, overhanging flake system to the chain anchors over the bulge at the top.


    Location 

    on the far left end of the cliff is a large slabby apron of rock. To the left of this is a major, right-facing off-width corner (Phase 3). Son of a Mother climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of Phase 3.


    Protection 

    Carry with you a nice size rack with a good selection of small gear (#0 TCU to red Alien, and brass nuts), singles from green to yellow Camalots, and several QDs.



    Comments on Son of a Mother Add Comment
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    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    Nov 11, 2011

    Very nice pitch. One or two move wonder. An approachable, well protected 5.10 for Poke-O. Chris, I appreciate all your work on this site, but you sometimes give a lot of detailed move beta, which seems a little overkill. Figuring out climbing moves on your own and figuring out how to protect them is one of the rewarding aspects of climbing. I think route descriptions should allow one to find and climb a route safely but not reveal too much detail that would take away the sense of adventure and discovery that accompanies onsighting a route. I guess it is a fine balance with grey areas....

    By Chris Duca
    Administrator
    From: Havertown, PA
    Nov 11, 2011

    So sorry to disappoint you, Nick. The intention of MP.com is to give first-person encounters of the routes we climb. Unfortunately, this leaves the door open to such things as intentional, or non-intentional, route beta. I would say, if you're concerned about the potential for onsight spoilers, read MP descriptions post send! Happy climbing!

    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    May 13, 2012

    Agreed with Chris: MP is not the place to go for poor route descriptions and vague fuzzy beta. The whole point of the website is to give more information on routes that your typical out-of-date guidebook neglected to tell you including specific beta for those who want it. Up to you if you want to read it or not...

    By burlap submariner
    May 29, 2012

    I think its more of an individual preference, when I climbed this route by the time I got passed the second bolt I was flamed as the gates of hell, fight the pump to the top was great but only when I hit the chains. I had not read this discription but if I did I would have been aware of the overhanging nature of the top 1/3 of the route, would have I been equally as pumped? The only thing certain is that every person who climbs this route with have their own experience.