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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side
Fifteen feet right of the Boulder Quartz System is a short 20-foot hand crack leading to a large ledge with a clean fifty-foot slab above. This is the start of Sominex and Sleep Deprivation.
P1. Climb the crack using small-to-medium gear gaining the ledge after twenty-five feet. Belay at a 2-bolt anchor. You can avoid this pitch by scrambling in from the right (see photo).
P2. Climb up a short left-facing corner (with gear) stepping right to clip the first of several bolts. Make a hard move and follow line of bolts up the clean slab to a two-bolt anchor. Alternately, one can start on Sleep Deprivation and move left into Sominex, requiring no gear.
Small-to-medium gear for the lower crack and 8 quickdraws for bolts and anchor.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Jul 21, 2003
We started from the ledge below the slab (scrambled up from the right side). While perhaps missing some fun crack climbing below, the ledge is huge and really breaks this climb into two sections. The rock is interesting and takes a liitle searching to find the holds/ sequence.
|By Bruce Pech|
Oct 23, 2003
I second Chad's observations about the climbing. Both crux sequences are pretty devious. On-sight, it felt more like .11c than .11b.