Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Quartz System 
Counting Sheep 
Sleep Deprivation 
Sominex 
Tooth and Nail 

Sominex 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 2, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side
  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fifteen feet right of the Boulder Quartz System is a short 20-foot hand crack leading to a large ledge with a clean fifty-foot slab above. This is the start of Sominex and Sleep Deprivation.

    P1. Climb the crack using small-to-medium gear gaining the ledge after twenty-five feet. Belay at a 2-bolt anchor. You can avoid this pitch by scrambling in from the right (see photo).

    P2. Climb up a short left-facing corner (with gear) stepping right to clip the first of several bolts. Make a hard move and follow line of bolts up the clean slab to a two-bolt anchor. Alternately, one can start on Sleep Deprivation and move left into Sominex, requiring no gear.


    Protection 

    Small-to-medium gear for the lower crack and 8 quickdraws for bolts and anchor.



    Comments on Sominex Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By TBD
    Jul 21, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    We started from the ledge below the slab (scrambled up from the right side). While perhaps missing some fun crack climbing below, the ledge is huge and really breaks this climb into two sections. The rock is interesting and takes a liitle searching to find the holds/ sequence.

    By Bruce Pech
    Oct 23, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    I second Chad's observations about the climbing. Both crux sequences are pretty devious. On-sight, it felt more like .11c than .11b.