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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way T 
Angle of the Dangle T 
Assume the Position T,TR 
Beginning, The T,TR 
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 
Blow-up T,TR 
Chimney's End T,TR 
Condolences T 
Congratulations T,TR 
Creation Crack T 
D.L.F.A T 
Dog, The TR 
Dyslexia TR 
End Of The End, The TR 
End, The T,TR 
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 
F4 Ledges T 
Flake Route T,TR 
Golden Ledges T 
Hourglass T,TR 
Hourglass Direct TR 
Ironmongers T 
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 
Lethe T 
Lower Diagonal T,TR 
Modern Art TR 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pete's Lament TR 
Pine Box T 
Rich and Famous TR 
Sometime Crack T,TR 
Sometime Direct T 
Sometimes Left Side TR 
Sometimes Right T 
Stretcher, The TR 
Sweatshop T,TR 
Upper Diagonal T,TR 
Welfare Line TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Sometime Direct 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: See comments below-- ? Kurt "Hard Rock" Krueger, October 1984
Page Views: 3,168
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Jan 1, 2002

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Sometime Direct. Thin edges near the top. May '08....

Description 

A superb climb. Start same as Sometime Crack but at the niche half way up, continue straight up the face instead of angling to the right. The holds are good on the face, until the last move...

Protection 

Runout on the top section. Well protected down low. The route is overhanging, so a fall from high would most likely be clean. I left it as "R" for the description, some might argue "PG13"-- just have fun and be safe.


Photos of Sometime Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Sometime Direct.  Amazing route!  May 09.  Photo Travis Melin.
Sometime Direct. Amazing route! May 09. Photo T...
Shaggy and barefoot!
Shaggy and barefoot!
This is me leading The Direct. Small pro below my feet. Photo by Kayte Knower.
This is me leading The Direct. Small pro below my ...
Steve Tucker on Sometime Direct. May '08.
Steve Tucker on Sometime Direct. May '08.
Sometime Crack
BETA PHOTO: Sometime Crack
Going for the on-sight.
Going for the on-sight.
Found these pics of Sometime Direct, from April 09, photo Travis Melin.
Found these pics of Sometime Direct, from April 09...
The strategy session.
The strategy session.
Sometime Direct. Placing pro before the crux section. Photo: Kate Muehling.
Sometime Direct. Placing pro before the crux secti...
Found these pics of Sometime Direct, from April 09, photo Travis Melin.  Always happy to be clipping something bomber.
Found these pics of Sometime Direct, from April 09...
Cool
Cool
Dmitriy starting out the 2011 DL season on a stout one.
Dmitriy starting out the 2011 DL season on a stout...
Kate Muehling at the crux. May '08.
Kate Muehling at the crux. May '08.
Tom M.
Tom M.
This shot is on the direct section of the route <br /> <br />Photo taken by:Rich Jaskewitz
This shot is on the direct section of the route P...
Found these pics of Sometime Direct, from April 09, photo Travis Melin.
Found these pics of Sometime Direct, from April 09...
Josh Knapp sending on a cold december day.   <br />Photo: John McConville
Josh Knapp sending on a cold december day. Photo...

Comments on Sometime Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2012
By Anonymous
May 5, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Did it on top rope. But prepare for a pump. Eat a lot jamming too.

The place on the photo at the top of the climb is not the main crux, but a tough pump too.
By Hard Rock
From: Missoula, MT
Jun 27, 2007

Leo gave me credit for the FA in his guide but I remember the first time it was TR better. Scott Stewart was showing Steve Wunsch around. Steve went up for it with a big lunge. Scott who had a sore finger had to protect the DL climbing reputation so he went up. He repeated the lunge but his feet came off the wall. He swung out but was still hanging on. With the overhang he had one chance to stick it when he swung back in --- and he did. It took us a little while to get rid of the lunge so I don't think anyone else repeated it that day.

-Hard Rock
By Tradoholic
May 9, 2011

Tom M took the whip from the top moves and didn't really come close to hitting anything, more like PG-13 than R.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Dec 29, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Great climb! Would have never guessed I would have got the send on the 26th of Dec! However, I nearly took the whip from the crux as my fingers were numb! I'd say R rated if you fall off the mantel, otherwise PG13. The mantel is pretty easy though, just don't fall! HA!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 30, 2011

Nice send, Josh. That's one route I've always wanted to lead. However, isn't every route "G" rated if you don't fall? I guess what I'm saying is that "R" and "PG13" ratings can't really have stipulations like you've stated, you know? They are either dangerous or not, right?
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Thanx Andy! Just like all of this climbing nonsense everything is subjective. I think this climb walks a fine line between PG 13 and R. I could see it going either way depending on what your strengths are as a climber. It's tough for me to admit but I use to spend most of my time bouldering and thus had no problem with the mantel. However, if you were to blow the mantel one has a pretty good (50/50) chance of hitting the slab at the bottom which would likely result in a leg injury. I say to each his own and I'm not really hung up on PG13/R or 5.10 C/D/E. Grades are just a loose guide as to what to expect and are subject to much individual interpretation. So I say let consensus rule (great thing about Mountain Project!) but individual experience may vary!

Peace

On a another note, what do you think about British E grades? They would work quite well at Devil's Lake.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Dec 30, 2011

Peace and fukness*
By Tradoholic
Dec 30, 2011

This was my first hard lead at the lake. I was up with Nick Adams and decided that I wanted to fuckin' do it. I think Nick was skeptical at the time but when it was done we were both psyched. It was an eye-opening experience to what could be accomplished at DL for myself.

I think the debate between PG-13 and R for this route reveals a little about the importance of a good belay. I saw Tom M fall from the last crimps in the horizontal and like I said above it was a clean fall. However, his belay had a lot to do with this. Josh took in a good yank of rope and sat down to keep Tom off the ledge. Falling from the mantle would allow for a few more feet of travel but with only a step or two backwards by the belayor the climber would still not hit the ledge.

Also, and this has happened to me in the gym often and outside a few times, when the line goes tight the climber falling slows down very quickly. Meaning, when they reach the ground they aren't traveling very fast even though it may look that way. We demo'd this often to amazed kiddos in the gym by taking huge whips onto the floor but miraculously surviving every time ;)

Regardless, at DL try not to fall on anything, there a few routes with good pro most the way and there's always stuff to smack into on the way down.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Strong, I don't think that I have earned the right to use the DLFA's tag-line yet, as I am a relative gumby at the Lake. I hope to someday consider my self worthy! Having said that, what does is take to be an honorable member of the DLFA?

Rhodes, you are right. I good belay goes a LONG way!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 30, 2011

Josh, I feel you. Nice lead- that's what counts. Also, it's been rumored to be a member of the DLFA you have to chug a malted beverage while doing a handstand- naked.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

One of the most fun falls I've ever taken.
By Ian CB
Jun 25, 2012

My buddy Baker lead this thing the other day for his second trad lead ever. Very cool. This climb is great by the way and I think the fall is clean and if you double up the last pro (we used a green and blue alien) it is super solid.