P1: Start as for Lover's Leap; there are really two possible corner systems to start Lover's Leap, choose the one on the right. Climb up to an obvious small rectangular roof (approximately 3 ft. x 2.5 ft.), this is visible in the lower photo in the Lover's Leap area description. Climb out the right side of the roof, following a seam up and to the right. Continue up past discontinuous seams and face climbing to the ledge with the midway bolts for Lover's Leap, you'll finish directly below the obvious roof to the right of the bolts. 5.8
P2: Hubbel's topo in Front Range Crags shows the route climbing up the crack at the right side of the roof. This was filled with vegetation, so we chose to climb up the left side of the roof (same as for No Holds Barred). Done this way, the climbing is a bit tricky and a tad run out until you can place [pro] under the roof, 5.9. Suggest climbing straight up under the roof to place pro and then traversing left to the features that allow passage around the roof. After surmounting the roof, we traversed right past a pin, that I believe marks the crack system for No Holds Barred, to an obvious left facing dihedral. We then climbed up the dihedral, 5.8. Hubbel's topo shows this as 10a R, however it is not, and the gear is fine. The true route may perhaps lie farther to the right, rather than as shown in Hubbel's topo. The dihedral ends at a ledge. Climb straight up the face above the ledge on good holds towards a 4 inch slot in the left side of a bulge, 5.6 s. Until you reach the slot (4 inch cam), the only pro options are marginal RPs down low. Continue past the good cam unprotected until you reach a ledge, 5.4 s. At this ledge there is a bolt to the climber's right. Either clip the bolt and continue up to finish, or belay for an optional short finish pitch.
P3: Set a belay at the good bolt, it is possible to place a red Alien about 5 feet left of the bolt to back it up. A few options exist, we chose to diagonal up and left, to the left facing dihedral to the right of the finish crack of Lover's Leap. Follow a diagonal chossy seam up and to the left finding pro where you can. This line will take you under the large rock fin that marks the right side of the finish notch for Lover's Leap. Climb up to the left-facing dihedral formed by this fin and climb straight up, 5.9 s.
Standard rack, up to 4 inches, a few RPs.
May 17, 2004
Yesterday, I climbed the 10a R second pitch for this route. It can be found (farther right than shown in Hubbel's topo) half way between the right side of the large roof above the Lover's Leap bolted belay and the moss filled 5.7 crack approximately 30 feet to the right. It is a shallow broken seem that diagonals up and to the right. From the bolts on the ledge atop pitch one, I suggest relocating your belay down the ledge closer to the start of the pitch.
The climbing is quite enjoyable and is much trickier than it looks. Start up the seam, side pulling, crimping, and smearing on lichen covered features. My first piece was about 10 feet up, my second was another 10 feet up from this. My first piece was a nut that I thought was so-so. When I placed the next few pieces, I wished they were as good as the first. Continue following the seam, fiddling and placing gear where you can. The gear actually gets better the higher you go. The seem ends at a large boulder sitting on a ledge, climb around this boulder on the right side. You can place some good gear here and clip a very rusted pin. Run it out past this on easier ground to a bolted belay with modern bolts and chains. A double rope rap from these bolts will get you to the ground. Be thoughtful in where you run the ropes to avoid getting them stuck. I had double 60s, but I'm sure 55s would reach.
Suggest smaller Aliens (I wish I had 2 greens), micro nuts, and some ballnuts.