Something Boring  5.9 X

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Jim McCarthy, Walter Baumann, Beth Stannard, Laura Brant, Christian Leroyer, 1971 Submitted By:  Dana Bartlett on Mar 8, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

1. Climb to the bottom of an obvious crack, go right a bit and then wander up to the big ledge on Three Pines. 5.7, 100 feet.

2. Start 15-20 feet right of the Three Pines corner. Climb straight up the face to the overhang. After the overhang, straight up again to the large ledge. 5.9 X, 60 feet.

3. I haven't done the third pitch, but those that have told me it is nice climbing and well protected.

The description in the latest gray 'Gunks guidebook is not correct.

I did this in 1980, and we hadn't started using harnesses or belay devices yet - not so unusual at the time. There is no protection on the second pitch until after the roof, and the crux is immediately below that and about 40 feet off the ledge. Just as I made the hardest move and latched a decent edge, my foothold snapped. There was most definitely a few seconds of focused attention. Whenever I see my friend Larry we talk about that day and we wonder: just what would it have felt like for him to catch an unanchored, 80 foot fall with a hip belay.

Location 

Start approximately halfway between Three Pines and Something Interesting; there are no distinct landmarks.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.