|Sunshine Face Left Side
This route is on superb rock with great climbing, and has a tricky and powerful crux. The headwall of the route is unusually steep rock for Suicide.
Pitch 1: Climb one of, Paisano Chimney, Clockwork Orange, or Euphoria.
Pitch 2: Follow the bolts directly across from the ledge. Slightly runout slab climbing (10c) leads past 3 bolts to the crux headwall that is the right side of the Caliente intrusion. Steep reachy edging leads past two bolts (11c) to the crux bolt at the top of the intrusion (13a). The crux bouldering sequence is rather inobvious and will pose a difficult onsight problem. From the top of the intrusion easier (10d) climbing leads past 3 more bolts to the top.
Right of Caliente. Start at base of Paisano Chimney.
Bolts, plus gear for whatever first pitch is climbed. Cams up to 2" or 3" for the summit belay.
BETA PHOTO: Someone Your Not
From: So Cal
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Simply the best. Perfect rock, perfect route. As good as it gets.