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Someone stole my anchor!
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By Joe_Re
From Topsfield, MA
Mar 28, 2012
While I was on the route!!!

On Monday I was at Quincy and my buddy had aided some route. He fixxed the rope and I started jugging the line to clean it. I was 15 or 20 feet of the deck and having a bitch of a time with the traverse when I felt the rope slip an inch or so. I hollered down what the fuck was that and he said ah it was probably just stretch. It slipped again and I said I'm outta here, something ain't right. I grabbed my reverso and started putting in on and suddenly I dropped about ten or so feet. Thinking maybe the sheath went I got on rappel and threw the aiders and jugs down and got out of there. My partner went up to check the anchor and told me to get down now and get up to him.

Some asshole took the biners off the glue-ins and dropped the rope. The rope drag we delt with is the only way i can imagine they could have gotten enough weight off the rope to get the biners off. The super8 knot he tied jammed in the last peice he placed and kept me from going to the ground.

We questioned everyone we saw in the area and took plate numbers in the lot. I have my suspicion about a few kids I saw and questioned but no proof. I am going to go to the Quincy police and file a report, but what the fuck, who does shit like that.

I will no doubt never return there and probably talk smack about how the nogoodnicks out there suck. Keep an eye on your shit while you're out there.

Has anyone else heard of this happening?

Joe.

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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Mar 28, 2012
modern man
Shit. Usually in this region(NE) of the country all we have to worry about is morons tossing rocks, cans, and bottles on our heads. That happened just last weekend at the Firewall for example and a few weekends before on another cliff(the kid had his nose broken that time).

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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Mar 28, 2012
Eiger summit
I don't know of biners being stolen but I know a couple of people who have had their windows smashed in the parking lot and their cars ransacked. Who wants to climb in a ghetto on graffiti covered walls anyway? It is only popular because of its proximity to Boston.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Mar 28, 2012
Stoked...
mobley wrote:
(the kid had his nose broken that time).


I didn't know you were a violent man Mr. Mobley

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By Josh Kornish
From Missoula, MT
Mar 28, 2012
Humboldt Bouldering
That's shitty man! Non climbers are just fascinated by carabiners it's ridiculous. Good thing you didn't get hurt because of it.

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By Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Mar 28, 2012
sounds fucked up and dangerous... might have thrown somebody off the cliff

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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
Mar 28, 2012
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any hangs, November 2011
wtf is wrong with people...?

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By JSH
Administrator
Mar 28, 2012
JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker
Damn. Glad you're alive. You could maybe post this on the page for QQ as a warning ... never been the best 'hood over there. But, damn.

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By randy88fj62
Mar 28, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
The only way I can see to prevent this is to use mallion rapides or equivalent and bring a wrench. This way you can rig your anchors and tighten the gates slightly more than hand tight preventing people from disassembling your anchor without tools. You can buy climbing rated ones on sale for $2.50 right now in the dirtbag deals link of this site. Cavers use these links often and bring small wrenches with them all the time.

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By fat cow
From St. Paul, MN
Mar 28, 2012
perfect seam
thats just ridiculous, now lets start up that conversation about bringing guns to the crag.

Last time I had rocks raining down behind me I had just untied, so I sprinted around the corner of the cliffs and scrambled to the top in less than a minute. As I rounded the top and started screaming obsenities I saw the culprits. Two old people about sixty years old or so dressed really nicely walking along the path, (a clever city trail made of baseball sized rocks at the top of a cliff, stupid city worker fucks) probably just on their way home from church or something stupid. Funny how tact changes when its not some punk kids, though i still reamed their assholes, though more politely.
They played ignorant and I said they didn't get tossed from the trail 10 feet back from the cliff edge by magic. Then i proceeded to tell them they almost just killed me and that there are hiking trails and climbing all along the base of the cliffs, they said they knew that, because thats where they were going to walk. Stupid people and their lack of awareness or thought. I think addressing people like they are complete fucking idiots helps to activate their grey matter and hopefully gets them thinking.

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By thomas ellis
From abq
Mar 28, 2012
Mint jullop
Hey fat man, why so udderly unforgiving of a simple mistake? Cool down. Not everyone gives a shit about climbing. Nor should they.

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By PosiDave
Mar 28, 2012
you reamed a 60 year olds asshole?

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By fat cow
From St. Paul, MN
Mar 28, 2012
perfect seam
Thomas, a simple mistake, are you kidding? If it had landed two feet closer to the cliff would it have been a simple mistake if it had cracked my skull and I were dead? Let me answer my first question for you, yes you must be kidding, that or you have no reading ability or critical thinking skills. I was climbing, sure, but it had nothing to do with climbing. What does throwing rocks off of a cliff where there are hiking trails and climbing routes have to do with caring about climbing? How about caring about people. I hope to humanity that you are just trolling, because that is the dumbest thing I have ever read on MP. Raise awareness, tell people not to throw rocks off of cliffs, simple.

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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Mar 28, 2012
modern man
Morgan Patterson wrote:
I didn't know you were a violent man Mr. Mobley

wasnt me I just scream like a psychopath , usually works good

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By randy88fj62
Mar 28, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Good example of why helmets are a good idea. Especially for belaying.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Mar 28, 2012
Stoked...
mobley wrote:
wasnt me I just scream like a psychopath , usually works good


hahaha ya likewise... I also offer to come up and throw rock at them as well... This happened to my girl and I at Firewall in last fall it was close but they just didn't know though...

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By thomas ellis
From abq
Mar 28, 2012
Mint jullop
See beefy. You need to let go of your anger. Your response is a bit over the top.
"the dumbest thing I ever read on MP" (read in nasally first grader voice for good effect) really? Then I want a prize...
You bitched out some old people? I disagree with your attitude and so you try to bitch me out? Hah!

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By BigMoveMike
From prescott
Mar 28, 2012
Pente 5.11 Onsight
Yet another thread derailed by the childish aggression of fat cow. Fat cow, maybe you should think about heading over to RC.com your welcome is wearing thin around here.

sincerely,
Mike Jacques

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By S.Stelli
From Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 28, 2012
Couldn't this type of action be considered attempted manslaughter? Purposefully endangering peoples lives is pretty serious business

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By fat cow
From St. Paul, MN
Mar 28, 2012
perfect seam
de-rail a lot of threads? had no idea, you're certainly the first to let me in on this and the apparent consensus that i'm toxic to forums. my apologies, as my original post was a mildly related and i thought somewhat interesting tale.

the reason i got nasally, though i did appreciated the udderly joke, was the disregard for the seriousness of the situation. having big ass rocks land next to you frequently is scary. it happened all the time where i used to climb, and patience wears thin when usually it's teenage kids who have never given it a second thought, as they are just throwing rocks having fun. the crazy part is those same kids, and those elder people alike, then hike down and walk on those same trails they just bombarded with rocks. it is truly astonishing the small mindedness. talk politely to a punk kid who seemly doesn't give a fuck, or make a more imposing impression, thats a judgement call i guess. i choose the later, as next time they are there with buddies, and one of them picks up a rock, he might say "hey man there are people down there on the trails, ya know the ones we are about to go walk on, so don't throw that big fucking rock."

does that make sense? a simple mistake is turning the cold water on in the shower, nearly killing someone, not so much. and if he had read my post more thorougly, he probably wouldn't have said not everyone cares about climbing, but it had nothing to do with climbing, thats so obvious i hate having to repeat myself. i mean i'm not really an aggressive guy, but come on his next response about bitching out old people, i said i changed my tune and addressed them with tact and politely, though like they were idiots. especially when the guy said they knew about the trails because thats where they were going, i mean come on thats absurd. so tom disagreed with an attitude that i didn't have, about a situation that wasn't simple, so ya i said aggressive things, though i think logic is hardly childish, but maybe.

edit: now that i look it was hardly derailed, but now it likely has been.

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By Kurt Swanson
From Philadelphia, PA
Mar 28, 2012
View from the Jane Spy belay station
Early April fools?

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By Joe_Re
From Topsfield, MA
Mar 29, 2012
Not a joke Kurt. It happened. Just want the community that climbs at Quincy and the surrounding areas to be aware that there are douchebags who either don't know or don't care that they could have killed someone.

Good idea on the screw links. I do have a few, however the glue-ins they use are a little to thick to get the run of the mill Mallions on.

Joe.

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By Emmett Lyman
From Washington, DC
Mar 29, 2012
Personal photo
Joe, thanks for the heads up on this. We should all be on the lookout for suspicious behavior at QQ. Fortunately, as we break into the season it will undoubtedly be swarming with climbers for most of the week (well, fortunately in this regard). Let's keep an eye out for one another's safety.

As to the parking lot problems - please don't leave anything appealing in your car for them to steal. And yes, your Talking Heads CD is sufficient bait...

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By Kurt Swanson
From Philadelphia, PA
Mar 29, 2012
View from the Jane Spy belay station
christ...whats next, sabotaged bolts?

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By -sp
From East-Coast
Mar 29, 2012
Buenos Dias!
Kurt Swanson wrote:
christ...whats next, sabotaged bolts?


No, I'll tell you what's next - a cut rope. The place has a long history of climbing but it somehow it seems to earn the bad reputation it has.

I thought things were looking up a few years ago when they filled in the water holes and made it into a nice looking park. Unfortunately all this did was ease access to all the rock faces and now they are covered in paint. It truly is disgusting. Before and after shots...

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 29, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.
It looked really cool in "Gone, Baby, Gone." I think they also showed them in "The Basketball Diaries." Now, not so nice. Such a shame.

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