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Somebody open my Dew 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Pope and Terry Wright
Page Views: 815
Submitted By: Emil Briggs on Dec 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Looking up at the crux overlap

Description 

Nice route that goes up very solid rock. Make some easy moves to reach a stance to the left of a sharp upward pointing flake. Move left and get established under a small bulge/roof. Clip bolts below the bulge and one bolt above it (might be reachy for some). Pulling over the bulge is the crux. Head up the steep slab (10+/11a) to a small ledge with double bolt anchors. Admire the overhanging finger crack extension (Bullistics 5.10+/5.11a) directly above you.

Location 

Located on the right side of the main face on a section of steep slab near the point where the the face starts curving around. To the left is the obvious line of Lightning Bolt Crack. There are two bolted routes that head up the slab. This is the leftmost line.

Protection 

Bolts to double ring anchors.


Photos of Somebody open my Dew Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emil on Somebody Open My Dew (5.11a/b)
Emil on Somebody Open My Dew (5.11a/b)

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By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty fun with extension. I think this is 11-... based a cold day ascent and on the old hand drawn guide by steve pope. The extension felt 10c-ish. Pretty good although the ledge below the extension was something to consider.
By Emil Briggs
Jan 8, 2014

Abel you might be right. The overlap is hard for me to judge. Pulling directly over it is very hard (at least for me) but there may be a better sequence.

Edit: After getting on this again and seeing other members of our party give it a go it looks to me like it's height dependent. For taller climbers the slab may be the hardest part and 11a is about right. For shorter folks the overlap is the crux and will probably feel harder than 11a.

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