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Start up short, shallow left facing dihedral with blue Tcu to face with first bolt. Crimp with rt hand wide and move up. Move left over crimps and then straight up passing second and third bolts.
Crux is pulling on crimps while getting left foot correct while passing third bolt. Then grab small divot with right fingers next to small pyramid and grab horizontal with high left hand to clip fixed piton. Last 20-25 feet is a little runout but can get red camalot in horizontal.
This climb can become am obsession.
Start immediately to left of Nutrasweet corner.
Mixed rte. Draws plus blue tcu and red camalot [1"]
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Jan 27, 2012
"This climb can become am obsession"
As your description shows... ;-)
|By Alex Garhart|
From: Robot Van, Pacific Northwest
Nov 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
This route is stellar. A little gardening would be nice on the lower 25 ft. Good gear and closely spaced bolts make for a good time. A little soft for the grade, more like 11+/12- through the crux with thoughtful, reachy climbing on decent holds to a mellow finish. Another excellent route on this section of cliff.