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Solstice Cave
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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: David Coleman, Kenny Campbell
Page Views: 5,774
Submitted By: ziggy on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Getting ready for a blood rush to the head on Sols...


This route ascends the very steep roof in the Solstice cave and is the next route to the right (if you are facing the cliff) around the corner from Shadow Hawk. Climb the steep face to a crux move and then fire out the insanely steep roof to the anchors. Bolts 1 2 and 4 do not have fixed draws. This is is a pumpy climb with an absolutely amazing roof. When you first start into the roof you are actually climbing back down towards the ground! Fall off anywhere in the roof and you will have a heck of a time getting back on the route!


Walk down to Spawn and Shadow hawk, continue around the corner to a ledge traverse with a cable. This will be the first route you encounter in the huge cave.


3 draws should do you, I would recommend using extended runners.

Photos of Solstice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Solstice climbs out the middle of the roof to the ...
Solstice climbs out the middle of the roof to the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: About to head into the hard part
About to head into the hard part
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching up into the crux.
Reaching up into the crux.

Comments on Solstice Add Comment
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By Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 20, 2011

In the horizontal section there are tons of ways to use footwork to take the weight off your arms. Keep an eye out for heel and toe hooks. I also found it useful to spin 180 degrees at certain points in order to use better feet. Excellent route!
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 3, 2013

There is now a fixed draw on bolt 4, so you only need to take 2 draws. All fixed draws are now ultra-bomber steel cables.

Technicalities out of the way, this route is as fun as fun gets. It is hard to believe how steep the thing is until you're up under it. The overhanging section is sustained and thuggy, and the roof section is just a matter of hanging on to huge jugs and working your feet before the pump clock runs out.

Absolutely stellar route that immediately jumped to the top of my list of favorite sport routes.
By Danny Hupp
From: Nashville, TN
Apr 21, 2014

If you can get to the break, there's a really good arm-bar rest. Also, if you're pumped trying to clip the chains, throw in a hand-jam to take the weight off of your fingers, which will no doubt be tired.
By Heather R.
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 7, 2016

Does anyone know what happened to the rest of the permadraws? You use to only need to use two of your own draws but now it looks like you need five....

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