Solstice of Change
||Trad, 2 pitches, 320'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Josh Ewing & Eric Roberts, June 21, 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring and Fall, possible on a freaky cool solstice|
|Page Views: ||1,411|
|Submitted By: ||Josh Ewing on Jun 22, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: View from the approach. Solstice starts on the fa...
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
PITCH 1: Start up a gorgeous splitter crack in the middle of the slab. The crack starts with hand jams. When the crack narrows to blue TCUs traverse right about 20 feet (a little heady) to join another splitter crack, which again starts with hands. Belay here to reduce rope drag, or continue up this splitter which narrows to fingers. Again, make a crack switch left to a right facing corner about 5 feet left. Mantle onto a small ledge at the base of a slanting, low-angle offwidth. Continue up the OW till it narrows to thin hands. Place a high piece and traverse left to another splitter, which leads to a nice belay ledge with a bolt and pin anchor. (This is a full 65 meter pitch if led in one pitch.)
PITCH 2: Do not go straight up from the belay into the chimney, which eats ropes for lunch. Instead, step right and climb past some loose rock to a gorgeous splitter finger crack through a roof. Continue on Red-Rocks-esque patina rock with fun splitter fingers to the base of an OW with a bolt. Continue up the offwidth and mantle onto a ledge with two bolts.
You could continue several pitches of easy terrain to a false summit, but the climbing is not nearly as good, so we recommend rappelling. Do not rappel straight down the corner from the 2nd pitch belay. Instead, rappel back the way you climbed and friction back to the P1 belay ledge.
On the north side of the North Fork of Taylor Canyon, you'll find a long ridge that starts with a slab with a beautiful splitter crack. This is near the mouth of the North Fork up and left as you walk in. Approach from up canyon just past a lower cliff band. See photos for landmarks.
Two 70-meter ropes. Nuts. Triples from blue TCU-3 Camalot. (1) #4 friend, (1) old 4 Camalot, (1) old 4.5 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Route photo with descriptors
Making an involuntary ascent of the rope-eating-cr...
BETA PHOTO: View of Solstice from approach.
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Apr 5, 2016
Great climbing on this route. The exposed position on the sunny prow is spectacular though makes the rock of a weathered quality. Based on the anchor, looks like the route hasn't been repeated since Josh and Eric were up there. Definitely deserves more traffic than that.
Two 70m ropes aren't necessary, a 60m is just long enough for the lead, but a 70m is better. A 60m tag is good.