Solo gri gri question
|
I have heard multiple views on using a grigri for solo aid and free climbing. Some say it shortropes you all the time and others say the rope whizzes through it and creates slack. I can see it changing also where it shortropes early in a pitch and creates slack at the end. |
|
I think the GriGri feeds plenty fast enough for solo aid, especially since you can adjust slack as often as you need to. I personally use back up knots beneath it, so I am able to manage slack when I unclip/reclip knots every several moves. I have never used the GriGri for solo free climbing and I don't think I would want to for many reasons. |
|
If you were using back up knots, would you simply tie them into the rope, let them dangle and untie them as they hit the grigri or would you clip them to your harness? |
|
I have used a GriGri to aid solo quite a bit. You definitely need to use back-up knots. I personally keep them clipped into my harness opposed to leaving the rope hanging. Be mindful that the hanging loops you create can get snagged below you. |
|
You need to chop off the tab on the plate side of the grigri. This is the only way to truly get the rope to feed smoothly whilst free climbing. Keep it OE for the Aid, no need for the modification. JUst pay out as much slack as you need to fire in that next peice. |
|
"You must also attach a keeper loop/swage at the brake side of the device. This is then attached to a chest harness to orient the Gri vertically." |
|
The rig i use.
The Swage loop does not have to be load bearing. You can use runners etc... The point is to keep it vertical so the rope runs smooth. In a upside down screamer, the force of the catch "Should" reorient you and if a large enough force is applied the swage will break away. This is in no way proven, I have taken falls, none have been head first. But this setup or something similar allows one to climb free in a somewhat controlled manner. Once you have the system dialed it is downright smooth. I usually wear a rope bag or small backpack, feed the rope in and have it running over the shoulder and straight down through the grigri to the anchor. |
|
Mucci, |
|
"how do you deal with the back-up knots if the rope is flaked inside a backpack?"
This is very route dependent. Sometimes I tie overhand knots every 25 feet or so, then carefully stack the rope in the backpack which has a large opening at the top. Or Flake out 20+ feet of rope and tie a knot, clip it to the gear loop. Repeat as needed. The name of the game is knowing where your gonna be gripped so you don't have a knot to deal with during the thrutching. You can feel the knot as the rope moves over your shoulder, but usually I go stance to stance with the knots. Glad this was of some help. It is a far cry from where I started rope soloing :) |
|
why would you clip it to your gear loop? shouldn't your backup go into something full strength? it would stop you either way but two attachment points to the rope doesn't seem like that bad of an idea. |
|
I trade redundancy for efficiency on moderate routes that I solo. |
|
I like it mucci. I'm going to have to mod mine for an upcoming solo that has some pretty significant free pitches on it. I hadn't thought of using my big wall equipment sling to hold the top of the grigri. |
|
A little more food for thought. IMO the worst thing about a mod gri is the chance of being caught like this... |
|
Yep, I've done it both ways. If the cam is on the body side, it can be obstructed by the harness etc and delay the catch as well (personal experience). |
|
Note that Mucci's modifications to the Grigri are specifically to make it feed easier when FREE climbing. You do knott need to modify a Grigri for solo aid climbing. |
|
JLP wrote:Ernie's first pic is why I do not use a modified gri-gri anymore. Knowing this, Mucci's setup looks to me like death on a stick. I've got $250 for a Silent Partner 10x over to get something like that off my mind.No kidding! Add up the price of the Gri Gri plus the modification equipment (swages, chest harnesses, malion rapids, etc). Add this to the time it takes to make the modifications times your hourly wage (or the rough equivalent for salaried folks). Do this and you will realize that this a sketchy rip off compared to the Silent Partner. Plus, if you decide you don't actually like to solo (which maybe 40% of folks do), you can sell the Silent Partner. Who is going to buy some chopped up Gri Gri? Oh, and if you need a rescue due to a Gri Gri solo failure, you might get charged for it. That is what $10,000-15,000? The Silent Partner is a comparative bargain. |
|
The Silent Partner is also huge and big and expensive and klunky, and offers no real benefit over an unmodified Grigri for aid soloing. |
|
Stever wrote: Can anyone comment on this? There is a lot of people using the grigri over the cinch, is there any particular reason? ThanksI've tried the Cinch on lead solo, and found that it always locks up from the weight of the feed rope below as soon as I make a move upward- the spring that holds the Gri-Gri open makes that device work much better. For top rope soloing, I've found just the opposite- a Gri-Gri doesn't move up the rope nearly as well as a Cinch. |
|
+1 for the awesomeness of the Cinch in a TR solo setup (with an appropriate backup of course) |
|
A friend of mine uses two mini traxions for top rope soloing. |
|
I have never heard of a grigri breaking in a big fall but could the cam pinch the rope enough to damage the rope? |