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House of the 7th Bobcat T 
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Peanuts To Serve You T 
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Solitude T 
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Solitude 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011
Page Views: 2,114
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Solitude. Numbers mark the pitches. &q...

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure on the Diamond MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.

For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.

Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.

For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.

The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)

Location 

Same as for Peanuts to Serve You. Just right of Bowling to Biscuits, and just left of the Bobcat Cringe. See the beta photo at right for details.

Protection 

Triple set of nuts to 1/2", several 3/4"-1" nuts, and a Camalot single set to 3.5, with doubles in sizes 0.5 to 1.


Photos of Solitude Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek on pitch 5. He is at the 10b crux of the low...
BETA PHOTO: Derek on pitch 5. He is at the 10b crux of the low...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper part of the last pitch of Solitude (5.11c). ...
Upper part of the last pitch of Solitude (5.11c). ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 11a section on Solitude's last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: 11a section on Solitude's last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: First part of the last pitch of Solitude.
BETA PHOTO: First part of the last pitch of Solitude.
Rock Climbing Photo: Solitude
BETA PHOTO: Solitude
Rock Climbing Photo: This pitch is P1 of Solitude and can be linked wit...
BETA PHOTO: This pitch is P1 of Solitude and can be linked wit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon, just past the crux section on pitch 5.
Jon, just past the crux section on pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon at the crux of pitch 2.
Jon at the crux of pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek following Peanuts (pitch 1).
Derek following Peanuts (pitch 1).

Comments on Solitude Add Comment
Show which comments
By michal
From: Everett WA
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral i estimate clocks in at 11d classic pitch all day
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Dec 7, 2011

"Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral..."

I haven't tried it. It looks nice, but when we were there it seemed a little dirty.

From the belay to the 11d traverse-right part, how hard was the corner?

By wayne wallace
Sep 15, 2014

Great line, thanks Derrick and nice to meet you! I thought the grades on the pitches were fair, but there would be no way I could free the crux with my fat fingers. Couldnt even get them past my fingernails in the crack. I think this route is with up there with Serenity Crack as one of the coolest multi-pitch thin routes in the west. I liked it better even. Cant wait to repeat it!
By blakeherrington
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thanks for all the hard work scrubbing these pitches, they were fun! The topo and rack both seem a bit off. On P3, where two spots of .11c are marked. I'd call the second spot easily 2 or 3 letter grades harder than the first. The crux is a short boulder problem in the middle of a short pitch, but it felt maybe V4-V5, and for a rack, I'd say leave all the stoppers behind (3 sets suggested?) and bring a double set of cams from blue alien to red alien, with singles of .75-#3 or #4 (the only spot where you might want #3 or #4 is on the 5.9 starting section).
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Hi Jon, I thought I would answer your question about P5. I don't think any move harder then 11a. I took a fall trying to get up to the corner I think where in the picture someone describes as 10b crux. I was about 6' above a #3, layback up a blunt downturned flake. I was not seeing any pro available, tried to reverse the moves, slipped and ran down the slab. It has some insecure pulling on features, which is more intimidating then hard. Once I got back up roof on left I discovered a hidden left slot that makes pulling up to the pedestal with finger crack above much easier, A #4 protects below this . I don't think it is as hard as Strange Boar, really good, just dirty.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 16, 2016

Geoff, are you referring to the left variation at the start of the pitch?

If you look at the picture labeled "Derek on pitch 5...", I put in some yellow topo marks to show where this variation is.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 17, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

no, not the variation, actually the flake just above Derek in the picture is what I fell off of. But I did TR the variation after rapping from the top. It is really good, very, very dirty- anyone ever climb it before?
Now I understand Michal is referring to this variation when he says cut back right, was confused.
By derekpearson
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I love that part of the pitch. Stemming helps me reach end of that strange sloping layaway hold. Actually I love every move on this pitch.

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