|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011|
|Submitted By:||Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011|
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From: Everett WA
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral i estimate clocks in at 11d classic pitch all day|
By Jon Nelson
Dec 7, 2011
"Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral..."
I haven't tried it. It looks nice, but when we were there it seemed a little dirty.
From the belay to the 11d traverse-right part, how hard was the corner?
By wayne wallace
Sep 15, 2014
|Great line, thanks Derrick and nice to meet you! I thought the grades on the pitches were fair, but there would be no way I could free the crux with my fat fingers. Couldnt even get them past my fingernails in the crack. I think this route is with up there with Serenity Crack as one of the coolest multi-pitch thin routes in the west. I liked it better even. Cant wait to repeat it!|
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Thanks for all the hard work scrubbing these pitches, they were fun! The topo and rack both seem a bit off. On P3, where two spots of .11c are marked. I'd call the second spot easily 2 or 3 letter grades harder than the first. The crux is a short boulder problem in the middle of a short pitch, but it felt maybe V4-V5, and for a rack, I'd say leave all the stoppers behind (3 sets suggested?) and bring a double set of cams from blue alien to red alien, with singles of .75-#3 or #4 (the only spot where you might want #3 or #4 is on the 5.9 starting section).|