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Solitaire 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 4,228
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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JJ Schlick on the classic move to the "Black ...

Description 

For the grade, Solitaire stands out as one of Flagstaff's more classic sport routes, and one of the most beautiful...

Start by small pine tree on the right side of the squaty pillar, just up hill from Man on the Moon. Surf through a large weakness filled with jugs to the first bulge. Eye your footholds on the right, below the bulge, because they will disappear all too quickly as you start to move up. Clever stemming, a hand jam, and a little laybacking (there are a hundred ways to do these moves, but only a couple good ones), will see you through to a good shake below the roof.

Once you get your bearings, you will be entering the crux as you begin to move out and right. The crux is bouldery, and you are indeed heading towards the Black Diamond hold, which is that rather pointy undercling flake up and to your right....

At this point, The Black Solitaire breaks off right, while Solitaire moves up and left climbing on the left margin of the black streak. Eventually the grade backs off a bit so enjoy the solitude as you work your way up the next 40' of stunning vertical stone.

Location 

Left hand side of black streaks.

Protection 

Bolts 5, 6, and 7 have chain draws. A full length runner on bolt 4 is nice. Long draws are nice as well for the rest of the route.


Photos of Solitaire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Colin Cox just getting into the hard bit.
Colin Cox just getting into the hard bit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff pulling through the last of the crux moves on...
Jeff pulling through the last of the crux moves on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wade Forrest on Solitaire
Wade Forrest on Solitaire
Rock Climbing Photo: Wade pulling into the crux and blending in with hi...
Wade pulling into the crux and blending in with hi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The entrance weakness to the Solitaires. Surprisin...
The entrance weakness to the Solitaires. Surprisin...
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ on Solitaire
JJ on Solitaire
Rock Climbing Photo: David Daily getting a little alone time...
David Daily getting a little alone time...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeffrey Snyder giving Solitaire a big thumb up!
Jeffrey Snyder giving Solitaire a big thumb up!
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
...

Comments on Solitaire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really an excellent pitch!
A tough onsight at the grade, but really fun dynamic moves through the crux.
By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2011

This is a great route... good job on putting this one up. Can't believe the shark tooth jug at the crux!
By RyanJames
Mar 21, 2012

One word: Classic!!!

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