For the grade, Solitaire stands out as one of flagstaff's more classic sport routes, and one of the most beautiful...
Start by small pine tree on the right side of the squaty pillar, just up hill from Man on the Moon. Surf through a large weakness, via jugs to the first bulge. Eye your footholds on the right, below the bulge, because they will disappear all too quickly as you start to move up. Clever stemming, a hand jam, and a little laybacking (there are a hundred ways to do these moves, but only a couple good ones), will see you through to a good shake below the roof.
Once you get your bearings, you will be entering the crux as you begin to move out and right. The crux is bouldery, and you are indeed heading towards the Black Diamond hold, which is that rather pointy undercling flake up and to your right.... At this point a closed project breaks off right, Solitaire moves up and left climbing on the left margin of the black streak. Eventually the grade backs off a bit so enjoy the solitude as you technically work your way up the next 40' of stunning vertical stone.
Left hand side of black streaks.
60 meter rope, 2 long draws (not runners),and 10 regular draws will do the trick. For the best rope run, I put long draws on bolts 4 and 8. This helps the rope skirt the bulge as much as possible. Bolts 5, 6, and 7 have chain draws.
|By Joel Unema|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Really an excellent pitch!
A tough onsight at the grade, but really fun dynamic moves through the crux.
|By Abel Jones|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 25, 2011
This is a great route... good job on putting this one up. Can't believe the shark tooth jug at the crux!