Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: FA (Toprope) Paul Bjork - FA (Lead) Dave Groth
Page Views: 5,897 total · 29/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Sep 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route


43 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start right of obvious thin crack and climb left up shattered rail to base of thin crack. Place small cams and/or bomber nuts as you climb thin crack and face holds on left passing a fixed piece below overlap/small roof. Pull small roof passing another fixed piece on crimps & side-pulls to gain shattered rail on the left. Work rightward up rail to a not-as-restful-as-you-think-it-will-be rest alcove with fixed pins. Go up trending slightly rightward placing gear in slots as you pass. There's a bit of a kick in the ass at the finish. Good gear (albeit sometimes awkard to place) throughout. Excellent route with great movement and interesting sequences! Reasonable lead as well as fun TR.

Location Suggest change

This climb is on the Northern Ramparts section, south of No Sugar, No Baby and north of Ecclesiastes. The top is fairly easy to find: between the aforementioned climbs look for a place where the cliff juts out a bit. There is a prominent clump-o-trees about 5 feet back from the edge. You will see a notch in the bare rock cliff edge just in front of the tree clump. That's the top of the route.

Protection Suggest change

Bring small to medium Stoppers, Cams to #2, Heavy on small (.3 Camalot) to Medium (#1 Camalot) cams. Draws and a couple 24" runners

Photos

loading