Soler Eclipse 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Dennis Horning, & Brent Kertzman - 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Sep 26, 2003 |
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Anders leading the first pitch.
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is pretty darn cool. It takes the arete between Soler and Hollywood and Vine.
Climb up the face left of Soler to a first bolt and commit to Soler Eclipse. Technical face and arete climbing leads to the first crux - a reachy lieback move to a great hold over the obvious roof. Immediately afterwards there is another difficult crux that involves a "I wish my shoes had C4 rubber" move. This brings you to the first (hanging) belay (hidden from view until now).
Continue up on easier (5.10a) climbing to the top - follow the bolts: there are some sucker holds that will lead you right and into bad rock at one point.
Excellent pitch.
Protection P1: 12 bolts to an anchor. P2: Less than 12 bolts to an anchor.
Unknown climber finishing Soler Eclipse. Taken fro...
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Eric Thompson pulling the lid on Solar Eclipse
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| Comments on Soler Eclipse |
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By Frank Sanders
Nov 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b R
| The first pitch is Marvelous !!! It is full of "Thoughtfull" and "Figure it Out" moves,solid holds,and Fat Bolts. in ALL of the Right Places.Yes 5.11b but Full-on PG!!!
The 2nd Pitch, though technically much easier, 5.10a, is a Huge Contrast. It is quite "run out" and You need to depend on flakes that "bend" and threaten to pull off. There are only 2-3 bolts on the whole pitch and they are of lesser quality. 5.10a, Yes, but 5.10a R!!!
USER BEWARE!!!!
Soooo, just do the 1st pitch,enjoy it fully, and rap !!!! |
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Apr 30, 2008
| On 4/29/08 all of the old 1" buttonheads with angle iron hangers were yanked and replace with 3/8" X 4" stainless steel 5-piece bolts and new hangers. The ARI donated the bolts, Frank Sanders donated the hangers, and Scott Fitzgerald did the replacement work--a big thanks to all involved! In Frank's post above he commented that the second pitch is only protected by 2-3 bolts, by which he meant decent bolts, because the entire pitch was sport-bolted, although most of the hardware was junk. I believe the bolt count is: P1- 12 bolts, P2-7 or 8 bolts. The entire route is now safely equipped with modern equipment, and is a damn fine line! |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 30, 2008
| Thank you Scott Fitzgerald for the retro fit. I did not remember the hangers being junk but I did get help from Dingus and he may have supplied angle iron hangers. Angle iron is way stronger than any whipper you can take on them. So despite the fears everyone has about them they have caught tons of whippers and have never to my knowledge failed. The bolts had to be 5/16ths buttonheads which despite the lack of knowledge about them (everyone thinks a buttonhead is 1/4 inch) they are really strong if placed in solid rock. But it does not matter now. I am glad you fixed it up. I did a couple of others out there that have that Dennis had set up with angle iron hangers. Astro Glide and Team Ropin'. If you guys want to replace them I would work with Frank to get the hardware. I think ARI will supply them as well. At least they did a few years ago.
Glad it is thought of as a good climb, we felt it was and spent the whole day and part of the night drilling it up. Is it still considered 5.11R or is it now just PG-13? |
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