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Bighorn Wall
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Dr. Feelgood T 
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Old and the Bold T 
Sole Neuropathy T,S 

Sole Neuropathy 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Helvie, Tim Steele
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Aug 31, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Sole Neuropathy

Description 

Start by clipping 2 bolts up to a small ledge. Place some pro (small nut & small cams) and climb opposing seams and cracks up to a 3rd bolt. More thin seams/cracks lead up to a 1 foot section of hand crack (#2 camalot) and a bomber #1 camalot in a section of crack to the left. Cruise up to another bolt and more thin cracks (small cams). At the 5th bolt, stop worrying about gear and clip bolts past the crux and a right leaning groove up to anchors under the bushes.

Location 

This route climbs the cracked green wall at the top of the talus hill. Scramble up ledges to the start.

Protection 

9 bolts, small nuts, small cams (aliens, tcus, etc) and cams to #2 camalot. Anchor is currently a quicklink anchor due to the current Eastside Mussy shortage.


Comments on Sole Neuropathy Add Comment
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By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 24, 2010

Oh No! The Eastside Mussy epidemic is upon us!
By Neil Kauffman
Jul 23, 2011

Where is this in location to Old and Bold?
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 23, 2011

It's located on the separate green wall to the right of Old and the Bold. Consensus seems to be suggesting that this maybe a bit harder, like 11c?
By Jeff Scheuerell
7 hours ago

This route could be 3 stars if it were cleaner. It is a very cool unique line. Unfortunately small bits of rock fall off with every move. The first 2 bolts suck you in, then you climb to the ledge and everything changes. I got a good but very small offset stopper and a red C3. Had to clean out dirt and grit to get the C3. Might have been able to get a third small piece if I had a cleaning tool(bring one). Worried about ripping my gear and decking if I fell before the 3rd bolt, especially with the bits of loose rock and lichen. Above the #2 was less than inspiring, a bit tipped out, a 3 would have been better. I did not see the spot for the #1 to the left but I got a solid piece just a few feet higher. Then the route gets hard.


If you like mixed routes, are solid at placing gear, and are a solid climber I recommend this route. Be ready for a bit of looseness and continuous climbing. And bring a nut tool.