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Routes Sorted
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A Wonderful Life 
American Caesar 
Aquarius Rising 
Barbarian Rising 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM 
Brother Of Fortune 
Consensual Hex 
Crescent Moon 
Donald Duckin It 
Dr. Octagon 
Flavor of the Day 
Full Steam Ahead 
Harder They Come, The 
Helicopter Exodus 
Labor Day 
Locks of Dread 
Natural Enhancement 
No Feelings 
No Utopia 
Parting Gift 
Proud Father 
Smilin' Jay 
Soldier of Fortune 
Soul Market 
Starry Night 
Sweet Dreams 
Tainted Love 
Trident, The 
Turn Down, For What? 
Wasp Whisperer 

Soldier of Fortune 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 2001/2002
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 899
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Janes navigating the thin section.


Soldier Of Fortune is a classic, technical face climbing route which favors out of the box thinking, and good footwork. And for some may lead to a battle of nerves, as some sections of the route require you to keep a calm head, and find some tricky placements at good stances.

Start to the right of Smiling Jay in a large "open" dihedral. Cool holds and good stemming lead you to a bulge, and a series of large rails which take you out right past the first bolt to a good stance. Move up onto the zig-zagging rail, clip the second bolt, and you are into the crux... Pick your way through some rad moves, devious holds, and the last bolt....

After the crux section paddle your way up stellar, positive holds keeping an eye out for gear. Follow the seam system up through a section of welded flakes, and one more .10- stem crux with good gear just below the anchors.

This was the first route I established at the Waterfall and is still one of my favorites. Once you know it, it's one of those lines you can do over and over, and enjoy it every time.


Right side, middle section


3 bolts, TCUs, #1 Camalot, small/medium wires.
Also easily TRed from Smiling Jay anchors.

Photos of Soldier of Fortune Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Janes gunning at the crux on his onsight run, before I added the third bolt.... It was quite a bit more spicy back in the day, but a way more enjoyable lead as she stands now.
Josh Janes gunning at the crux on his onsight run,...
Soldier of Fortune is on the right.
Soldier of Fortune is on the right.
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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2013

So I finally got a proper anchor on this line, and it only took me 13 years or so to get it done... Darren M., Wade, and I cleaned up the top of this thing today as well, and it simply adds a classic finish to an already classy pitch. Thanks for the help boys, I can cross that job off the never ending list of things to do!

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Classic waterfallness. A little bit chossy at the crux though! watch out

By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2013

The choss you speak of Mr. brown has been removed.

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Sir Schlick i thank you! I need to give this climb another lap and most likely another star!