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82 Steep Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afro Samurai S 
Beyond S 
Crusty By Nature S 
Doggfather, The S 
Encryption S 
Enter the Dweezil S 
Little Red Hen S 
Solarium T 
Steppin Razor S 
Team America S 

Solarium 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dave Vueno
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010

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  • Description 

    A hard crack with bolts initially and some gear above. The main crux is on gear and is pretty physical from what I understand. If you like hard cracks this could be a good climb for you.

    Location 

    I believe this is the next route right Little Red Hen.

    Protection 

    Bolts and Gear (cams from 0.5 to 2 inches???). Someone else please chime in, haven't tried it this line....


    Comments on Solarium Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 10, 2016

    A great pitch, though calling it a crack climb is a stretch. There are certainly some critical jams required but most of the route is face climbing, some of which is very steep. The crux is bolted, though there is plenty of challenging gear-protected climbing as well. The start involves climbing an awkward crack and flair to reach a high bolt. This section presents you with a choice: Get gear in high enough to be worth a damn and fill up a useful jam, or make committing moves past the jam looking at a somewhat concerning ledge fall before plugging gear in after leaving the aforementioned jam. A long stick clip also works! After that, the bolted section is excellent and technical, while the gear protected second half is steep and intimidating. There is enough solid gear to make the whole thing reasonable, but one definitely needs to climb well above it in places, and to have the hang time to get it in from very steep stances. The route takes the most continuously overhanging section of the 82 after all, and there really aren't any rests until the real business is over just below the anchor.

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