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Solaris

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contact 
Cosmic Explorer 
Crumbs 
Don't Get Me Started 
Harvest Moon 
Kundalini Express 
Left Line 
Leftovers 
Luminosity, The 
Mephistophiles 
Mission To Mars 
My Place In the Universe 
Party On 
Right Line 
Right Way, The 
Start Me Up 
Stellar Drifter 
Tower of Power 
Twilight Zone 

Solaris 


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Location: 40.0001, -105.4125 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Oct 4, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on Solaris.
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Description 

A worthy crag, Solaris lies just left of Avalon. The crag consists of four buttresses separated by steep gullies. The main walls face west and provide morning shade for hot-weather climbing, and afternoon sun for climbing in cooler weather.

There are over a dozen routes here, most of them developed by Richard Rossiter and various partners.

Most routes are fully bolted sport routes, and can be done with a 50m rope and a set of quickdraws. There are a few trad routes and a few that require some gear in addition to the bolts.

Solaris has routes on three levels: the Lower Tier, the Main Wall, and the Summit Tower. To get to the Lower Tier, continue up the talus about a hundred feet above the creek, then cut left and down along the base of the wall for several hundred feet.

L->R:

Routes on the Lower Tier:

A. Crumbs, 8+, 1p, gear, 60'.
B. Left Line, 8, 1p, 60', bolts. Face with horizontal cracks to slab. Can continue on Leftovers, 5, 120', gear.
C. Arete, 9, 1p, 60', TR.
D. Crack, 9, 1p.
E1. Right Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts. Face to tree to pillar.
E2. The Right Way, 8, 55', gear.

To get to the Main Wall, continue up the talus and look for cairns. Cut L at the cairns and follow a trail along the base of the wall. The first route you'll see is Contact. The other routes lie several hundred feet farther left, past a gully.

Routes on the Main Wall:

F. Don't Get Me Started, 5, 1p, 70', bolts. Face to ramp.
G. Start Me Up, 7, 1p, 70', bolts. Face to slab.
H. The Luminosity, 9, 1p, 80', bolts. L side of roof.
I. Tower of Power, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts. R side of roof.
J. My Place In the Universe, 11, 1p, 65', gear.
K. Mission to Mars, 10-, 1p, 40', bolts & gear. Crack by tree.
L. Party On, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
M. Harvest Moon, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 80', gear.

To the right of the below mentioned gully.
Q. Contact 9, 1-2p, 130', bolts. Corner to face.

A steep gully lies between Contact and Mission To Mars. There are 3 routes on a ledge on the right at the top of this gully.

N. Mephistophiles, 10, 1p, 60', gear & bolt. Finger crack to face to crack.
O. Twilight Zone, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. Face.
P. Kundalini Express, 8, 1p, 80', gear. Dihedral to slab to headwall. R of Twilight Zone.

The Summit Tower is on the tier above the Main Wall (according to R. Rossiter's excellent guidebook is Japanese Garden):

R. Stellar Drifter, 9, 1-2p, 150', gear. Crack by tree.
S. Cosmic Explorer, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts. Slab R of P2 of Stellar Drifter.
T. Chomo Lungma, 7.

At the cutoff to the Main Wall, you can head south (upstream) and find a path to the Tarot Wall area on Avalon.


Getting There 

Approach #1: Park at the Practice Rock pullout on the right at 8.1 miles, opposite Bell Buttress and the route Cosmosis. Walk upstream 140 yards to the crag. If the water is low enough, you can wade or hop rocks across the creek right below Solaris. After crossing the creek, follow a path up to the right, around a short wall, to the edge of a talus field. From here, you can cut left to the Lower Tier, or continue up to the Main Wall.

Approach #2: If the water is too high to wade, you'll have to cross the creek via a tyrolean traverse. Unfortunately, the tyrolean traverse that used to be set up below Solaris is no longer present (as of 5/25/06), so the easiest tyrolean to use is the one below Avalon, another tenth of a mile up the canyon. You can park at a paved pullout on the right across from Avalon at 8.2 miles to shorten the walk to the Avalon tyrolean. Use the Avalon tyrolean, then hike up the talus angling left below the First Tier of Avalon. Continue up to the left side of Tarot Wall on the Second Tier of Avalon, and take a path north (downstream) toward Solaris. Go through a short wooded section, cross a talus field and within several hundred feet you'll arrive at a trail leading to the Main Wall of Solaris (look for cairns).


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Solaris:
Stellar Drifter   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
The Luminosity   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Twilight Zone   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Tower of Power   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mephistophiles   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Cosmic Explorer   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Solaris

Featured Route For Solaris
Mephistophiles.  Climb discontinuous finger and hand cracks to a steep headwall with a bolt.  Make several difficult moves past the bolt, then climb a flared finger and hand crack to the top. <br /> <br />Protection in the flared crack at the top could be difficult to place; the route can be top-roped after leading Twilight Zone.

Mephistophiles 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : Solaris
Approach: Go to the main tier of Solaris, traverse left past Contact, and head up a gully on the right. Spot a ledge on the right side of the gully with a line of bolts; this is Twilight Zone. Mephistophiles starts 10' left of Twilight Zone and goes up a left-angling crack system, with one bolt high on the route.Climb the left-angling finger and hand crack to a stance by a bolt on the steep upper headwall. Make several difficult moves past the bolt, gaining a flared finger and hand ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Solaris Slideshow Add Photo
The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
Comments on Solaris Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bruce Pech
Jul 16, 2004

The trashed ropes in the Tyrolean below Solaris were replaced on July 15, 2004. See my Avalon comment for additional information.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2006

The tyrolean traverse below Solaris wasn't present on Thursday 5/25/06 and the water was too high to wade.

We went a little farther up the canyon and used the Avalon tyrolean. After crossing the creek, hike up around the left side of Avalon's First Tier to the left side of Tarot Wall. Take a path to the left (north), through the woods and across some talus, to the Main Wall of Solaris.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 29, 2012

Found a sling and biner on the right side of Solaris on May 25th (probably dropped off of Stellar Drifter?).

By George Bracksieck
Aug 21, 2012

As stated above in the route list, routes J, K, L, M are left of the gully separating the Main Wall from the blob that contains Q, N, O, P. I say this because, in D'Antonio's guidebook, J, K, L, M are erroneously shown to be to the right of the gully and beneath Q, N, O, P.