Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ship River Face
Select Route:
Blade, The 
Caffeine Free 
Feet of Clay 
Phone Call From Satan 
Power 
Purple Headed Warrior 
Slit Your Wrist 
Solar 
Time's Up 

Solar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Upper Pitch: Dean Fry and Russ Bunker 1973 F.F.A. Thomas and Lyford 1977
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Solar
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun climb that goes to the top of the West Ship.

Pitch 1:
Traverse in across the face to the anchor at the top of Phone Call From Satan
5.8 30 ft.

Pitch 2:
Step left from the anchor and proceed up a thin crack through a black face to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.
5.8 40 ft.

Pitch 3:
Follow the large dihedral up and left to the top of the formation and a bolted anchor with rap rings.
5.9 60 ft.

  • Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined with the first pitch of Phone Call From Satan into one long 175' lead (recommended)

Rap with a 60m rope to the anchor at the top of Caffine Free then one more rap to the ground.


Location 

Start in the gully on the East side of the formation or begin with Phone Call


Protection 

nuts and cams to 2"



Photos of Solar Slideshow Add Photo
Kathryn near the top
Kathryn near the top
Comments on Solar Add Comment
Show which comments
By rpc
Mar 20, 2006

"and proceed up a thin crack through a black face"

That opener of pitch 2 (which Watts does rate 5.8) seemed (to me anyway) MUCH harder than anything else on that route. Can't get the fingers in the crack and the big block is a bit "shifty".

There was also a single bolt near top of dihedral - not sure why it's there as the crack offers good pro all the way up.

By mark d
Mar 20, 2006

i would second, that linking this route with phone call from satan, is the best way to do it.

rpc- that bolt is part of the caffeine free finish. i wonder myself why it was put there.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 21, 2010

Anyone care to mention what makes this an R-rated route in the books?

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 21, 2010

I think its the first pitch traverse from the bottom of Toxic around the corner. Its not too bad but there is the potential for a pendulum. I recall the rest of the route has bomber gear.

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Dec 19, 2012

You can also climb this by climbing Caffeine Free and linking directly into Solar. Climb up and clip the first bolt of the extension of Caffeine Free, then step right into the thin crack. Do it all in one pitch!

By stj
Jan 19, 2014

The thin crack right above the Phone Call from Satan anchor is definitely the crux, fairly hard for 5.9. It can be avoided by traversing left around a shallow corner (5.7). The upper two pitches protect well and link up nicely with Phone Call. Definitely combine pitches to do this in 1 or 2 leads from the ground.

It is possible to rap from the ledge at the base of the dihedral (start of P3) to the ground with a single 60m rope.