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Charlee and the Stick Factory S 
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Solar Winds 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: mike carville, kia burns, brad johnson, john robinson
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: mike carville on May 5, 2013

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Kelley enjoying a rest before the crux on solar wi...

Description 

climb face/cracks then traverse top to anchors over left. In Mike Carville's 1991 guide book this was a top rope climb. It is now bolted.

Location 

left side of wall. See Emeralds main page. (Photos) This climb starts on the left and at the 4th bolt it crosses "Sunburn" and goes Right to top where it shares top anchors with "Sun Burn". The climb is 10c if you traverse in from the bottom from the left.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Solar Winds Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Solar Winds
BETA PHOTO: Me on Solar Winds

Comments on Solar Winds Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alan
Aug 31, 2014

I'm confused. In the hand drawn mini guide solar wind is listed as 11b and is the left most bolt line. However, on MP it is listed as 10c and sunburn is listed as 11b/c. There are two bolt lines on this face however they share a 3rd or 4th bolt then they diverge again with a bolt left if a mini roof and a bolt above the mini roof on the right. Which line is actually solar wind? We did what we thought was the 11b based on the hand drawn topo clipping the left most line until they diverge, at which time we moved right to the bolt above the roof and then back left to the last two bolts and anchor. Not sure if we mixed two routes together or what but the line felt natural and the climbing was fun. Felt like possible 5.11 climbing in a few sections either way.
By Marcus McCoy
Apr 11, 2015

so, farthest left start and right option finish after the routes cross? Do I understand this correctly?
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Start left finish right .10c

Start right finish left (direct) .11b/c
By John Robinson
Administrator
From: Elk Grove, ca
Jun 26, 2016

I made changes to the topo which is in the Photo's section on the Emeralds main page which will provide better information on "Solar Wind" and "Sun Burn"
By Jes C.
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 29, 2016

Had a little adventure on this route so I thought I'd share so no one else ends up in my predicament. My plan was to start left, finish right (10c), which went great and was super fun... until I went around the first roof to the right, and traversed back left to the second bolt from the top (which ended up about calf level). Not realizing that the anchors were shared, I peered in vain up right on the slab for any easily reached anchors. Nope. Since the beta said stay right I made my way out onto the slab to skip the last bolt (which I thought looked like 5.11 moves) thinking I would the traverse back to the anchors. Only problem was that once you're out on the slab there is no way to tell where said anchors are. After climbing about 10 ft on dirty 5.7+ slab I made my way back left to a horn where someone(s) had left some webbing and realized I was above the new anchor with no way back down other than to clip that crinkly old ebbing and down climb to the real anchors (which I did). So, my recommendations- either be strong enough to know you can lead the last bolt on Sunburn to the anchors, or BYO webbing. But, don't avoid the route- it really is fun!
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Jes,

There is a way to traverse to the anchor from the slab moving directly left without having to do the sketchy shenanigans on the slab. It's exposed but fun.

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