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Sun Spot Crags
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Wedge Of Delight, The S 
White Dwarf S 

Solar Wind 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JSt, EMk
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Winter, Fall
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: Jimbo on Jan 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Solar Wind (March 2014)

Description 

Sustained, devious, and pumpy. Doesn't let up till your done.

Location 

On the south face of the Solar Flare formation, just right of the large tree.

Protection 

Bolts, Chains


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By Jimbo
Apr 4, 2007

I key foothold has been broken off at the second crux bit. While there's still enough of a bump to use, it will be much harder now to see the hold and figure out how to use it. Consequently the on sight rating may be a harder than 5.11.
Good luck amigos.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2008

Got on this yesterday and could not even get up it. The lower section is funky and painfully sharp. The much touted second half is supposed to be good. I found the bottom so unpleasant that I bailed.
By Jimbo
Apr 23, 2008

I got on this after Eric. While I don't share his distain for this route it's a total sand bag at 5.11. The upper 1/2 is pretty good.
The broken foothold didn't seem to make it any harder.
By Jimbo
Mar 5, 2010

Here's the deal. Ryan and I spend a good portion of the day on this dog doo snowcone.
We comfortized the key sharp holds, and pulled off a few others. (Ryan took a upside down whipper when one broke off)
All in all it's OK tips wise.
This thing climbs much better now, but the bottom is very hard to read, and pumpy.
The upper half is as good as anything else at the Sunspots.
Still feels hard .11 to me.

Ignore EFR's comments above, he's an elitist wanker who wants every hold lined with velvet and marked with red and blue tape.
By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 5, 2010

We comfortized the key sharp holds, and pulled off a few others.

What are comfortized holds?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 5, 2010

Jimbo wrote:
Ignore EFR's comments above, he's an elitist wanker who wants every hold lined with velvet and marked with red and blue tape.


hahahaha Jim!
By Jimbo
Mar 5, 2010

Ryan,
You rub the small sharp crystals off the surface of the hold with a biner or the flat part of the hammer. Then everytime you crimp on it it's not digging deeper cuts into your tips.