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Solar Plexus 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: P-1 Tom Howard & Lee Carter, circa 1980's Complete route with P-2, Nathan Brown, Mike Grimm, & Lee Carter
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, fall, winter
Page Views: 1,410
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 12, 2007

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Mike in the business

Seasonal Raptor Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is on the same wall of funky features as "Indecent Exposure". This route is slightly harder but less endurance oriented. Both are on high quality rock.

Start on the "Mourning Maiden" dihedral.

P-1 Climb up MM 10' and traverse out right to a lichen covered face. Climb the face up past an old pin and a bolt that are hard to spot. Continue up semi-runout terrain to an overlap. Pull overlap to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10-). Alternate start is to scramble the 2-pitch gully and step across to the anchor, avoiding pitch 1.

P-2 Climb the obvious steep wall via a seam (rp's usefull here) and crack (possible #3 or 3.5 camelot here) through the bulge to a line of 3 bolts. The crux is moving right at the first bolt to the next stance at bolt 2 (5.12). The climbing gets relatively easier above bolt 3 (5.10), and the gear is good (albeit funky). Lower or rap from a 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

the business pitch is 2 routes right of "Indecent Exposure". The rightmost of the trio. All 3 start at the same spot off the ground.

Protection 

Standard rack. 3.5 Camelot could be usefull


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