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Solar Flex 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & D. Roth
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Mar 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Solar Flex Photo: Andrew Doll

Description 

This route is located on the black bowling ball buttress just up canyon from the Example prow. The buttress contains two routes, "Arnold, Arnold!", and to its right, "Solar Flex".

You may want to stick clip the first bolt, then scramble up a chossy flake to begin the route. The hardness gets going right away, with steeper than normal (for Shelf) climbing up excellent stone. Move quickly to a good rest at a flake just right of the 3rd bolt. Past this, the crux involves spanning a long blank section, then the route eases up considerably, while a long runout takes you to the shared anchor.

This is a rare, high quality power route, so take advantage of it, if that's your style. If you like this route, then you should also like "Arnold, Arnold".

Protection 

4 bolts to welded cold shut anchor, shared with "Arnold, Arnold!"


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By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Oct 25, 2010

This is another great route similar to next-door Arnold Arnold. I'm curious if folks who have done both think that Solar Flex is a letter grade easier. I thought Solar Flex demanded more power and used smaller holds than A-A, although Solar Flex is probably less pumpy. I realized I didn't use the rest out right, so maybe that's the difference.