|219 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Consensus: ||5.11+ [details]|
|FA: ||Andrew Barnes, Dustin Dyer, and Todd Bol|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||tbol on May 7, 2012|
Me about to do the changing cracks crux.
This climb is a nice addition to the crag. The climb was done ground up and took two attempts to figure out the improbable first crux.
P1. Climb up a dirty and friable slab without much pro to gain an offwidth directly beneath the changing cracks crux. There is an optional belay stance at the start of the offwidth but could be skipped easily. Continue up the offwidth until it turns into easy fingers. Find a big jug and do a crazy move out right to gain the really steep hand crack above. Continue up on good jams and thrutch into the "snake pod". Build a hanging belay in the pod with big cams. (5.11)
P2. Continue up through the pod and fight the relentless, rattly fists crack above. Arrive on ledges below the offwidth pitch on Better Lock Next Time. This pitch is a real joy. If it sees a few more ascents and cleans up, it will become a bit more user friendly. (5.11+)
P3. Follow BLNT or climb the steep 10 hand crack to the left and figure a way up Garden Party.
This is on the left side of The Sun directly beneath the finishing pitches on Better Lock Next Time and Garden Party.
Lots of #3 and #4 Camalots, a few #2s, #1s, #0.75s, and a single rack in the smaller sizes. Bring plenty of finger-size gear if you want to try Garden Party.
Pulling the changing cracks move. Thanks to Dusti...
Snake Pod and the P2 fist crack of Solar Flare can...