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The Sun
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Lock Next Time 
Garden Party AKA Sketch Book 
Halogen Angels 
Solar Flare 
Summer Solstice 

Solar Flare 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andrew Barnes, Dustin Dyer, and Todd Bol
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: tbol on May 7, 2012
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Me about to do the changing cracks crux.

Description 

This climb is a nice addition to the crag. The climb was done ground up and took two attempts to figure out the improbable first crux.

P1. Climb up a dirty and friable slab without much pro to gain an offwidth directly beneath the changing cracks crux. There is an optional belay stance at the start of the offwidth but could be skipped easily. Continue up the offwidth until it turns into easy fingers. Find a big jug and do a crazy move out right to gain the really steep hand crack above. Continue up on good jams and thrutch into the "snake pod". Build a hanging belay in the pod with big cams. (5.11)

P2. Continue up through the pod and fight the relentless, rattly fists crack above. Arrive on ledges below the offwidth pitch on Better Lock Next Time. This pitch is a real joy. If it sees a few more ascents and cleans up, it will become a bit more user friendly. (5.11+)

P3. Follow BLNT or climb the steep 10 hand crack to the left and figure a way up Garden Party.


Location 

This is on the left side of The Sun directly beneath the finishing pitches on Better Lock Next Time and Garden Party.


Protection 

Lots of #3 and #4 Camalots, a few #2s, #1s, #0.75s, and a single rack in the smaller sizes. Bring plenty of finger-size gear if you want to try Garden Party.



Photos of Solar Flare Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the changing cracks move.  Thanks to Dustin for the pics!
Pulling the changing cracks move. Thanks to Dusti...
Snake Pod and the P2 fist crack of Solar Flare can be seen between the trees.  A great vantage point for Garden Party and BLNT up above.
Snake Pod and the P2 fist crack of Solar Flare can...
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