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Solar E-clips 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott, Murdock, Rhicard
Page Views: 1,831
Submitted By: Sparky on Jan 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Geir goes Brazilian on Solar E-clips :)


Solar E-clips is located in the middle of the Sunburst Crag and climbs a major weakness. The line starts in a dihedral under a roof. There are some interesting moves into a open groove. The top is exceptional with steep pocket (yes, pocket) pulls. This thing took some clean up, but it is fairly sweet in its current state. 8 or so bolts. Sparky speaks the truth.



Photos of Solar E-clips Slideshow Add Photo
Christian in the midst of some funky climbing before the hammer falls.
Christian in the midst of some funky climbing befo...
Solar E Clips is the obvious weakness to the right and down from the big white V-slot that dominates the top of The Griddle
BETA PHOTO: Solar E Clips is the obvious weakness to the right...
here's the topo
BETA PHOTO: here's the topo
This is the right side of the crag called The Griddle.   Creighton Chute is workin' Solar E Clips.  Hashbrowns 5.10+, Hardboiled 5.9, & Sunny Side Up 5.10 all start to the left just out of the photo.  English Breakfast Crack 5.9/10 starts on the right side of wall but the crack is around corner out of sight.  The 5.10 headwall can be seen just above notch created by the overhang jutting out to the right.
BETA PHOTO: This is the right side of the crag called The Grid...
Geir leading Solar E-clips
Geir leading Solar E-clips
Chris Walsh "in the business" on Solar E-Clips.
Chris Walsh "in the business" on Solar E...
Ryan approaching the puzzling inverted roofed v-slot.
Ryan approaching the puzzling inverted roofed v-sl...

Comments on Solar E-clips Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 11, 2010
By Jimbo
Mar 9, 2006

Solar E-Clips is one of the best routes at this area. Interesting and varied climbing right to the anchors. 5.11- is a bit of a sandbag for this route, but it is a route I would climb again and again.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climbing, all kinds of different moves to be had, even some chimneying up to the first bolt..Getting up underneath those roofs had kind of a multipitch feel to it..Save some energy for the top..

Also thought was harder than 11a..even as I hangdogged to my heart's content..
By Jimbo
Dec 26, 2006

After many people have climbed this route, two opinions have emerged:
1: It's the best route at the Sun Spots
2: It's 5.11 b/c
By jbak
Feb 5, 2007

Definitely a sandbag at 11a. I tried it as a warmup thinking that was the grade and got brutally flashpumped. Good route, 2 stars easy.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 5, 2007

Harder than 11a and couldn't be happier that I didn't lead it.

What's the deal with the anchor about 10-12 ft below the actual anchor up top? Different route? Someone extend the last bit?

By the way, that last little bulge getting to the anchor was pretty hard or I was thoroughly gassed, maybe both.

Good route - best one we did on the crag. Closer to 11b/c IMO.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 6, 2007

I agree with you Susan. 5.11- it is not, even though it feels easier some days. The old anchors you found we think were done by someone who aided the thing years ago. Or they may have lead it on gear. Until they come forward we will never know. I don't know why that Jimbo dude doesn't just change the rating with the edit feature. He's a bit stubborn.
By Jimbo
Feb 7, 2007

If one would look 3 comments up, one would see that I have noted that this route is more like .11b/c.
The topo was compiled by someone else, and I can't change it with the edit feature.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 8, 2007

How about that for an excuse.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 27, 2010

On a mountain full of fantastic 5.11's, this is one of my favorites. A huge variety of moves and techniques, plus an exciting and pumpy finish. A must-do if you are at the Sun Spots.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Working this climb has been a blast. Absolutely fantastic route with a bit of everything.

I left some 'biners on the anchors to make lowering easier / quicker. Hopefully they stay around for a while.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 7, 2010

Big congrats to Geir on sending this route on gear only this past Saturday. Very impressive and inspiring to watch! Way to go, Geir :)
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

thanks marcy!! you're the best! :) :)
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Nice Geir!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 11, 2010

Looked more closely at the gear yesterday as I clipped the bolts and I came to this conclusion. The gear really is dubious in places. One hell of a bold lead Geir and Ruljancich. I would only feel safe leading it because I have it so wired. I doubt I would ever test the stuff you are calling Pro. I know Geir didn't have it that wired. Trad-ass!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

hahaha "trad-ass" - thanks eric! :)

Eric Ruljancich also lead this climb on gear on Saturday, and arguably had the more noteworthy ascent. At the last few moves he went for it over shaky gear despite being quite tired. In one of the more ballsy and thrilling efforts I have seen, he fought for the redpoint and fell literally at the final move. Fortunately Eric's quite skilled and the gear held. He wasn't at risk of groundfall but that 20 footer would have been MUCH longer if that gear pulled.