WI3 M3 X
|313 page views|
This route gets the most solar exposure of any on Crane and is always thin (if it isn't out altogether). While it is an excellent mini alpine adventure, it is poorly protected for much of its length. Distances are estimates, as the route was originally third-classed.
P1: Climb up to the corner to the oak tree. 70'
P2: Climb the swathe of thin ice up and left to a large ledge. (Belay is possible here). A narrow band of ice leads to a tiny, R-slanting "ramp" through a 20' headwall. Climb this using mixed techniques to get around the overhang at its top. 90'
P3: Follow ice as it weaves up toward the top of the main South Corner Cliff. 140'
This route lies to the right of Eyebrow, and to the right of the "Blueberry Ledge".
Take the BAW path past the height of land until you reach a crag with a large, square overhang 20' up on the left side of the trail. Walk up left of this to the cliff and work around right to the R-facing corner on the right side of "Blueberry Ledge". This route starts ~25' right of the corner, ascending a swathe of thin ice on a steep slab to reach a right-slanting, left-facing corner with a small oak tree growing in it near its upper end.
Descent: Walk west, ascending to the top of the South Corner cliff, then descending along the ridge until a walkable gully is seen. Descend this, with possible need for a rappel if you choose the wrong gully.
Runners for trees, a few medium cams might help, some 10 - 16cm screws.