Sojourn  5.11 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet FA:  Steve Muehlhauser and Sarah Spaulding, 1984 Submitted By:  Eli Helmuth on Aug 12, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The route Sojourn is a thin crack/face testpiece and feels a bit harder than the 11a rating given by the first ascensionist. It starts just to the right of Melvin's Wheel on a buttress separated by a 4th class gully. The route faces directly west making it a cool pitch for much of the day. Tiny gear placements make this a reasonable but somewhat serious lead. The two bolt anchor at the top of the pitch was installed by Topher Donahue in the late 80s. It is possible to scramble to the top of this cliff (via the gulley) to set-up a top-rope on this very interesting line.

A direct finish straight up the obvious thin crack through the upper bulge was free'd by Eli Helmuth in 2001 which bumps the rating up to 12a/b. #1 TCUs and #3 and #4 Camalots are helpful in doing this sustained and technical finish directly to the anchors. The original finish traversed right around the corner to easier ground.

Protection 

RP's, very small cams and a red tri-cam are helpful for the original line.