Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bookmark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Backflip 
Bellyflop 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
Plan A 
Rhythm Method 
Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Sojourn 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
Time Machine 
Twiggy's Crack 
Virgin Spring 
Wigglin' Fingies 
Unsorted Routes:

Sojourn 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
FA: Steve Muehlhauser and Sarah Spaulding, 1984
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 12, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route Sojourn is a thin crack/face testpiece and feels a bit harder than the 11a rating given by the first ascensionist. It starts just to the right of Melvin's Wheel on a buttress separated by a 4th class gully. The route faces directly west making it a cool pitch for much of the day. Tiny gear placements make this a reasonable but somewhat serious lead. The two bolt anchor at the top of the pitch was installed by Topher Donahue in the late 80s. It is possible to scramble to the top of this cliff (via the gulley) to set-up a top-rope on this very interesting line.

A direct finish straight up the obvious thin crack through the upper bulge was free'd by Eli Helmuth in 2001 which bumps the rating up to 12a/b. #1 TCUs and #3 and #4 Camalots are helpful in doing this sustained and technical finish directly to the anchors. The original finish traversed right around the corner to easier ground.


Protection 

RP's, very small cams and a red tri-cam are helpful for the original line.



Comments on Sojourn Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -