Soft Job 5.12d
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| Type: | Sport, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | bill bentley 1993 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Dec 15, 2008 |
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jon baldy belaying...
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Description This is the Route in the middle of the right side of the cliff that follows the shallow right leaning corner to a set of quick clips at the halfway ledge. Soft Job ends here and there is another route that continues.
Start on a huge jug just left of the start of Machine Head (5.11c/d) you won't get many more of these big holds so enjoy it. Make a long move off of a nice undercling to a good crimp. Let the games begin. Ultra technical moves on small crimps and invisible feet get you up the steep face using tiny sidepulls and gastones, and some fancy footwork. then make a move left to a good rest at the halfway point. from here pull the roof using a really cool rung hold and get up on a really awkward ledge for a rest. The Final section heads up a shallow groove and isn't bad after you figure out the feet and where the holds are.
The bottom and top are harder for shorties and the ledge rest is wicked awkward for tall people (serves us right i suppose).
Location Just left of Machine Head.
Look for the thin face just right of a right leaning corner.
Protection 5 bolts to quick clips.
Lily on the nice rest above the hard start...
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lily finishing it up...
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 11, 2011
| ive been watching Lily on this thing lately and ive been on it once or twice... knowing the way we climb and how hard this is i'd have to say this route seems more like 5.13a... thoughts anyone?
PS. my theory is that this soft section of rock has worn down making ok feet in to desperate feet and there by upgrading the route... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 11, 2011
| I think it has always been a desperate sandbag. Supposedly there is a trick to it, but I never figured out what it is. Even when I was climbing my hardest, where it should not have been a problem, I couldn't even do all the moves, never mind link it. I have only been on it a few times, but I wouldn't argue with 13 for a grade, or maybe a really reachy and fingery 12d |
By S. Neoh
Apr 11, 2011
| I, too, have heard there is a trick to it. Even back when I was strong and flexible, I could literally not get off the ground on this one.
Why this climb? Restless Native (hard corner) or Great White (desparate crimping) or ... might be more rewarding. Just saying..... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 11, 2011
| good info guys...
im not set on doing this climb in any way... i just wondered if anyone else thought it was a sandbag... i have however done most of the classic 5.12s around rumney and im not going to avoid a route cause it doesn't get many stars... ive seldom met a rock climb i didnt like, soft job is cool, just stupid hard for 12c... also as the season has started up im already sick of the crowds so ill be on the obscure routes in the back country when ever i can be... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 24, 2011
| after talking to a few others and getting on the route again i decided to change the grade to 5.12d here on the proj so people know what they are getting in to... and its harder if you are short... i feel like its just a tad easier than bottom feeder (5.13a) but harder than get it on 5.12c/d which is similarly crimpy... that's my story... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 2, 2011
| lily and i both ended up sending but man this thing is a tough bouldery route... fun though... once you figure it out its all there but you will doubt it when you first pull on to it... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 3, 2011
| Nice sends, both of you! Now we need you to make a movie of Lily doing it so we can get the beta. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 3, 2011
| thanks! i was thinking the same thing mark... flexibility and hip strength are key :) |
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