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Unsorted Routes:

Soft in the Middle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Dave Horn
Season: Great on colder days
Page Views: 1,518
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Soft in the Middle with bolts (added) and protecti...

Description 

Hayley Anna is worth the walk but adding 2 more pitches makes it even more worthwhile. Both pitches above are fun. The first is easy and fun. Although it looks like a dirty crack your basicly face climbing around the crack but getting great protection in the crack. This pitch has some very cool features. Although it stays wet for a few days after a rain you can almost always avoid the water. It has a fun traverse and a nice exposed belay. The second pitch is great and it is harder than it appears at first. Originally put up with 2 bolts I have added 5 more to take away the sting. Bring a bit of pro to a .5C4 and a good eye to find it.

Location 

p1 starts directly above Hayley Anna. Goes straight up, then follows a diagonaling crack to the right. Soon after the crack peters out, face climb to the exposed 2 bolt belay/rap station.

2nd pitch goes up from here passing a couple of bolts and taking gear when you can find it. Ends at another 2 bolt belay/rap station. 3 raps straight down. 2nd rap goes over the large roof to a third bolted rap station.

Protection 

Standard rack for p1. (Also may want a #4 camalot)

On the last pitch I place a yellow C#3(only thing that will work in that spot. Right above it you could place a micro cam. Above that I place an offset nut. Bust out a few moves and you get a bomber .5C4. After the last bolt keep your eye out for a green Alien size peice under the small roof. You can also get one last peice, a small offset nut or a 0C3, before the anchor.(SEE TOPO/PHOTO)


Photos of Soft in the Middle Slideshow Add Photo
Gary Carpenter leading p1
Gary Carpenter leading p1
Gary cleaning my last bit of pro on p2
Gary cleaning my last bit of pro on p2
Original bolts shown in red. Yellow and green I added later to make the pitch much more enjoyable.
BETA PHOTO: Original bolts shown in red. Yellow and green I ad...

Comments on Soft in the Middle Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 24, 2013
By Bonesaw
From: CA
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

The final pitch is soooo good! Super fun face moves. The "Soft in the Middle" pitch was not soft b/c it was very wet. Great route (even better when dry)!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 11, 2011

This route is no longer R rated. Josh and I added 2 more bolts to my route. We were going to add a third but the rain came in again. So there is still a bit of a run out but the climbing is easy there. Just make sure to place good gear under the mini roof before the last moves to the anchor. I placed 2 cams a blue tcu and the red C3. The yellow C3 would be nice there but it was also very nice to have lower down.

A double set of cams should be enough for the first 2 pitches. You may also want a 3.5 and 4 Camalot. The 3rd pitch is mostly bolt protected but after the, now, 4th bolt you step right and can get an ok peice(I had a yellow alien and a Yellow C3 and the C3 seemed to fit the placement best). From the same stance you can get a micro cam (000C3)and maybe even an offset micro nut. after a couple of moves I got a bomber .5 C4. From there it's a bit run to the mini roof where you can get a peice or two. I placed a blue tcu and a red C3 but a second yellow C3 instead of a blue tcu might be better. You can also place an offset stopper like maybe a #6HB before the anchor.

Also, the pitch above Haley Anna is often wet but after a bit of cleaning you can now climb around the wet sections without much trouble. The holds on this pitch are amazing. Bring several long slings for this pitch.
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
May 15, 2011

Jeff great meeting you and Monica yesterday. I'm anxious to go back and climb this and others.

Marc
By Jeff Scheuerell
May 16, 2011

Nice Marc, let me know when your around and maybe I can join you. Come out and join us at Shuteye this summer.

Jeff
By spyork
From: Fremont, CA
Feb 8, 2012

Fun route. The first pitch was wet when I led it. The water made it a bit more spicey, but still within the rating. The crack on this pitch tends to get stuff growing in it.

The second pitch is clean slab climbing. The rating seemed right on. Good slab practice when it is cold everywhere else in the winter.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 12, 2012

I am glad this route is seeing a bit of traffic. As stated above we added a few bolts to the last pitch and intended on one more but got rained out on 2 trips up there with the drill. The climbing in the run out section is easy but a short person might have a harder time reaching the protection under the roof before traversing right to the anchor. Also I have heard people are missing(not finding) several peices of gear available between the last bolt and the anchor. If you find the gear this pitch is a very soft R if not that last move will be very heady.

I hope to get the last bolt in soon due to the fact that the route is seeing a bit of traffic and from below the route appears very well protected.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 12, 2012

Word is the last pitch rap needs a couple more links otherwise your rope may twist. If anyone goes up to do it maybe you can add a link.
By Ed Hartouni
From: Livermore, CA
Feb 12, 2012

I did this route Saturday, Feb 4 2012

I thought that the combination of Hayley Anna followed by these two pitches of Soft in the Middle would make a great 3 pitch 5.8 with varied climbing from bottom to top!

At the top of p2 you have to resist the urge to be drawn over to the rock right under the bolts, which I did and pulled it off with the help of a upper belay from the stuck red rope (see picture), still probably only 5.8, but I didn't want to risk blowing the move and ending up on the little ledge below,

Instead, work left a bit to a roof under which you can get a couple of cams, and move up there then walk a ramp right to the anchors.

It might make for a great 5.8 leader route to put a bolt protecting the moves under the anchors, but it's a fun route, very enjoyable.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 31, 2012

I added another bolt as suggested by Ed and others. The pitch is now very safe but keep an eye out for protection. I added a few pro hints in the protection section above.
By Kurt Jensen
From: Aptos,CA
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Nice meeting you the other day Jeff. I've enjoyed a few of your routes there now!
I think Jeff's pro hints are key. I couldn't see any bolts when I left the 6th bolt, and would have been well into the R zone if I didn't have a purple .5 C4 or equiv. when I found the brief bomber spot for it. Above that, I didn't have his recommended gear for the end of the pitch, and hadn't seen his tips (even though I'd just met him)...which made for some R excitement with no pro above last bolt. Follow wise Jedi's tips, and you'll probably have a more casual lead on really cool rock. Enjoy!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 21, 2012

Ya Kurt, nice to meet you and great to see people climbing and enjoying Parkline. Soft in the middle would be scary without pro. But with the recommended rack it is very safe. Kinda getting warm down there now but Parkline is great on days when they are calling for a chance of rain. Hope we are not done there for the summer.
By Yosemitesam
Jan 24, 2013

Pretty fun route. I felt the 2nd pitch was a little heady. I found a spot for a purple master cam but even that was way above my last bolt and way far from the next. Decently moderate slabbing but definitely not a clean fall if you blow it.

I agree with Mr. Hartouni about not getting sucked into the terrain directly below the anchor on this pitch. I started up and then ended up having to downclimb a heart poundingly high ways from the last pro. It is sweet relief to sink that bomber blue master cam under the roof.

We rapped back to the first pitch anchor instead of the bolts above the roof b/c the stance looked a lot more comfortable.