Soft in the Middle 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Bill Dockins, Kristen Drumheller, Summer 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Erik the Awful on May 16, 2009 |
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Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
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Description Fun pumpy 5.10 with a stout crimp crux right in the middle. After placing a nut above the first bolt traverse slightly left then follow the bolt line to the chains. The bolt line that goes up and right from the nut is "Top Heavy."
Location Right side of the Bowling Ball wall (south side of the Tower). First bolt is about 25' up.
Protection #1 camalot before the first bolt, medium nut after the first bolt, quickdraws. Chain anchor.
| Comments on Soft in the Middle |
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By kozzybear
From: Oconomowoc, WI
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.11c
| The big jug near the top flexes, so be wary. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 18, 2012
| The "tombstone" has been flexible for a long time. That would be a horrifying hold to have rip, especially since you really have to yard on the thing.... and then stand on it too! |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Feb 4, 2013
| The "Tombstone," sounds like a job for Fix-it-Quick. |
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